Agree with the aviation spanners. Someone gave me a set to 19mm and these have often been my go-to spanners. I wish I had the 22/24 one as well as that would have been really useful doing the radius arms.

Please let us know how you get on. I will have to undertake this job in the future so keen to see how you manage. If possible give us a rundown on parts, kit you use and technique. If you are doing both you will hopefully be well versed by the time you fit the second. Good luck with it.

I just searched those part numbers and they look like different parts from what I can see. https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/diff-pinion-flange-differential-4bolt-stc4858-ftc5322-stc3722-round-p-37446.html https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/diff-flange-seal-rear-stc3124-p-7153.html I don't know anything...

Keep us updated. Interested to see costs and photos if you can.

I didn't know the 5 door were a longer wheel base. I know they made an LSE but I thought that had bigger back doors than my 5 door.

The 1970s chassis was shorter? Thank feck I didn't attempt the chassis swap on mine then as that would have totally screwed me!!

And the leather seats. I had a 1972 with a full width rear seat and the vinyl had gone brittle and disintegrated. My idea was to do a body swap from a 1991, but I ended up getting a new hobby before I even started and it ended up just sitting in a yard for about 5 years slowly deteriorating...

Certainly doesn't look like a 1970 - though it could have had a body swap I suppose.

Can you get to the rear of the screw, does it go all the way through? I changed the front calipers on my Defender earlier this year and the bolts did not want to come out. I tried the bolt extractor as the head was rounded, penetrating fluid and heat where I could (but that's not easy on a...

The paint brush idea sounds good. I will look into that more.

Perhaps these are similar. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/384054507171?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=imybicgzsmi&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=EC2NqmK2QMW&var=652317453047&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Thanks Lynall. Is thus something you have tried yourself as I had considered it but thought the seals may not be upto the job? If they work with plusgas then great - but if they work with rhe acetone mix then that will be fantastic as I could potentially mix it in the can.

I currently use Plusgas for my thread penetrant but I am also considering a 50/50 mix of acetone/ATF One thing I have noticed is how difficult it can be to apply to the area I want it. My Plusgas is in a tin, not a spray can. Many times the area of application is in an area with little room...

Could you take photos of the shaft and flange. It would be useful to see any wear.

You have to remember it is the total slack you can feel, so drive flange and diff. I think if it was tight a lot of friction would be created and it would soon wear.

I agree with Range Roller, penetrative fluid just before a job does not do a lot, but every day or two for a week or over makes a difference. Also wire brush around the area first - you want the penetrant to try to get between the parts you are trying to separate. If the area has lots of crud...

There is a farm not far from me where there are a number of land rovers including S3, Defender and forward control. Probably all too far gone..

Welcome to the zone. If you are an expert on rust we (me in particular) would really appreciate your recommendations for dealing with rust, as we often have plenty of it! If you wouldn't mind giving us some advice we could at least look at it and see how it could help us in our own personal...

Also may be worth adding the make and part number. Probably a daft question, but have you fitted locknuts?

Try adding a photo. Those who know what they are talking about will find it easier to comment.