I brought my rad and the standard disco pipes to Pirtek - they gave me the correct adapters without a bother.

I have used Millers additive for years, I'm convinced it adds a little Oomph, and it's supposed to be good for the entire fuel system.

As above, nothing difficult, just time. If (and it can be a big if on an old land rover) you don't have any seized bolts etc, I think you could have the old one off in a day - especially if you use a rattle gun to remove lots of the many bolts. Depending where the rot is, it may be possible to...

FWIW, I have just changed the oil and filter on my discovery engined 90 - 5.8 litres to the max mark.

There are a few heads for sale on ebay, worth a very close look at the pictures - you might get a good one for not much.

0.2mm is correct, set when cold. Fingers crossed a new head gasket and proper torqueing of the head solves most of your problems. It depends how deep the cracks are and where they are.

It looks like fibreglass to me - so wear a mask if there's a chance of inhaling the dust/particles. I used self adhesive closed cell foam on mine - easy peasy to fit and pretty cheap.

As I mentioned above, a complete disco 1 being sold for parts is the ideal doner - that way you will have some idea of the mileage, and can get the radiator/oil cooler/intercooler etc and all the pipework. You will need to make or buy a exhaust downpipe, but the whole thing is pretty easy.

It might be RTC3743, these are listed for the headlights

Red faces here - the old switch doesn't have a back either - just a nice layer of corrosion on the terminals. Given the dirt/dust the vehicles were expected to be exposed to, it seems like a bit of a liability.

It's a crap photo, but you can see the solder has just been blobbed on - no way this would have passed muster when I was an apprentice.

Just arrived in the post - I'm sure this can't be right - open contacts? It will make it easy to keep the contacts clean, but I can't help thinking there should be a back on the switch. The soldering is poor too, and will need to be redone.

+1 for fitting a TDi. A Mk1 Disco would be an ideal donor. I know you were fond of the old 2.5 turbo, but a 200/300 TDi will give the old girl a new lease of life for years to come.

Well, after my recent post saying I couldn't find anything to fix, it looks like I did jinx myself. Jumped in on Sunday morning - alternator light stayed on, revs made no difference. I was on my way to something, so swapped to the car. That afternoon I tested and all was well - battery at...

Just completed the bi-annual oil change and checks prior to the MoT - first year ever I couldn't find anything that needs done! Just in case I have jinxed myself I'm going to treat the old girl to a new main lighting switch, as sometimes it needs a wiggle for the sidelights to come on.

If you put the transfer box into neutral - you're not going anywhere. There are a couple of great old land rover videos which show you how to use the two gearboxes effectively.

I should add for any thinking of crossing the pond to sample the fantastic scenery/food/drink that the drink/drive limit in the Republic of Ireland is now the equivalent of 1/2 pint of beer. It's zero if you are a professional driver.

I totally agree with this - every car (apart from this Land Rover) I've ever owned has over read on the speedo. I suspect I have the "wrong" tyres for my speedo gearing, which has lead to it reading correctly. It's within 2mph compared to my GPS. Back to Micks original post - the Garda speed...

I had a similar small leak on the old NA, I found using clean blue roll or similar worked well - even a small amount of fuel will show up on the paper.

Sounds like a fuel leak to me. There should not be even the slightest smell of fuel. Get a really bright torch and look at all the joints in the lines - particularly around the leak off pipework. I'd also look from underneath - around the FiP, and check the timing case breather/drain, in case...