very useful although not used as much as flossie, i bought this cheap off ebay just for this job, the idea is to get corrcect TDC so set to zero just before tdc, turn crank then reading will change and then go back to zero, mark off on flywheel or pully at each zero and then in the middle is...

on my 84 series its same as below same as santanas

you dont use the flywheel locking key on your engine ,this might be your problem , have you the locking tool for pump step 13 above for early engines

this ios on my 84 2286 with timing chain ,but i used dti to find TDC on piston 1 with head off , my pointer was missing so made a new one to check tdc through the flywheel housing cover then ypu can also use the dti to find max opening on no1 exhaust cam to check marks

also gives to change to check TDC on piston top with DTI and make additional markings if reqd

i thought it might have mentioned the 12J prefix , E looks odd and not in this list. but if it is the 12J it confirms its an early engine and how to time it is explained in the manual here. have you the little window to spot EP on the flywheel outer ring, also where is the screwed hole for lock...

TDC not the same as EP exhaust No 1 at max opening Is your engine number on left front of engine or on right above rear side plate near lift pump, this will let you know whether you have an early or late 2.5 and how to time it

Sounds like you have got the cam/crank belt fitted incorrectly and as you say the valves hitting one of the pistons , so ensure the no 1 piston on compression stroke with both valves closed it’s possible you’re a turn out Have you a copy if correct engine manual

Have you read this one https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/12j-exhaust-peak-timing.387655/

Agree 5mb stronger engine

Looks like new pipe won’t come with fitting, but you should be able to but fittings to suit These look promising https://www.darwendiesels.com/content/25-cav-diesel-fuel-injection-spare-parts

Are the push rods sitting in the brass sliders properly and not jammed off to the side

What’s the engine number stamped in cylinder block

All tappet slides free

Maybe a process of elimination, remove plugs, slack off all tappet adjusters so all valves closed turn engine by hand then start adjusting a pair of valve gaps at a time see if they get stiff You can also remove rocker cover while running rough to watch them all, make video to review at slow speed

Interesting link here on pushrod lengths https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/is-there-an-8-on-this-cylinder-head.394152/

I did that with mine and lasted a fair while but the valve stem top caps I used on the rebuild , can’t think that would be your problem though

Apologies for being a bit numptyish Not sure what you mean by hanging up, can you expand on this A tenth of an inch seems extreme to machine off cylinder head are you sure on this And what have you measured the vacuum on

Correct, it also stops oil dripping on your drive 😀 Yes that little hole shown in above pic Very cheap on eBay or add to next order

It’s to hold the wading plug