so when you do this is the punched dot on crank gear lined up with arrow on rear cover if so thats good so you know TDC and EP can be found on the crank , then to double check EP dot on cam wheel does actually match Exhaust peak on no 1 as measured correctly by the DTI with head on and rockers on

on your pics above the cam wheel should be set to dot not lines according to manual , the crank pic is shown at TDC but you can see the dot that should be used at the 4 o clock position (this will be EP) if crank turned to the dot can you see any marks in the flywheel housingwindow where...

i think you should ignore the locking of the flywheel as this wont help edit (unless working to the later engine setup methodology )

caliper will just do the top, i borrowed one of these, an internal micrometer. very accurate, but on my 2286 i also took block to a machine shop for them to double check , i had a wear ridge that you could feel with fingernail but was only about 3-5 thou , i still decided to get a rebore to...

sorry for any confusion but i think its an error on your marks, im not quite sure which marks you have on your flywheel , if they are stamped EP and TDC or at all, but if your pistons are hitting the valves then the camshaft is in the wrong position when the piston is coming to TDC , if you have...

Ok , so can you whip off the head look for wear ridge at top and perhaps measure bores that will give a good indication of condition, then you could remove pistons check rings and bearings etc

Better off putting your starter on off the landy you’ll get a better reading

Is there not supposed to be a bit clearance rather than lashed up tight

Is there locking washers on it, has it been overheated

Yes I think I’d replaced mine too. Didn’t think to put some plastic/rubber sheet in between as a barrier, the mud shields I got are real HD from YRM 10 years ago about £20 a side then. the angles were spot welded on originally I’ve popped on both sides still holding on

Refurbing my rear springs one side had two small ones broke on one side, so I trimmed down one of the other sides to match , worked well but noticed when tub full of manure it hit bump stops when going over lumpy ground but not fully loaded was fine, maybe a noticeable drop in ride height when...

Have you tried separating spring leafs , derusting , lubricating them, then while apart measuring the leaves to compare with spec. There is also opportunity to remove a spring leaf if above makes no difference

Have a look for the series 3 workshop manual http://smithies.co.nz/land_rover/ Could be a pipe blockage too in tank so remove pipe from top of tank to see if end gauze is blocked If lever does not work properly and pump the fuel through you may need to rotate engine 1/2 a turn

Don’t worry we’re all lovely here 😇, is it the petrol or diesel original engine When did it last run, have you done anything recent to it What checks have you done so far

There should be a L shaped bracket on underside of wing that mudguard bolts to. I used some rubber door stoppers in between mud guard and footwell to make a gap so the crud doesn’t get stuck there

Well done getting to the bottom of it, do you think bent pushrod there before or occurred during running on

You might have a wait , he’s not been seen for 11 years

if your belt snapped originally then the gear wheels would have moved out of sync you see the EP exhaust peak is 109 deg before top dead centre so with belt off and all pistons in mid point in cylinder you should be able to set pump and cam at exhaust peak measured with dti then get crank at...

dats lot of gears:eek:

maybe E numbers specific to spanish landrovers Espania? ;)