The ones I Have fit to the side rail and supported by a strut to chassis , this is screwed in with a 8mm screw into a nutsert

I replaced my fuse box last year as the spade terminals were loose due to rivets gone slack losing voltage so that’s a good call

The station wagon is the best of the series and a lot of the other pics bits look original and decent condition You can look in LRO magazine but I would have thought £4k or more easy

Welcome, as above, you need to tick all them boxes, I would go new chassis particularly if you want a project to keep you busy for the next few years, the other bit to look at is the bulkhead for rust which is expensive to replace What’s engine, gearboxes, axles like my 84 rear axle thought was...

You need another 110 sender to match the gauge as said and an adapter if required https://www.steveparkers.com/product-category/conversions/200-tdi-discovery-series/page/2/ I got an adapter from here to fit series sender into my discovery 200di You could try lots gentle tapping with 4oz pin...

Progress well done , If you took out all the shims and nipped up the 4 bolts on top to get the 3kg tension , are you left with a small gap between swivel pin and housing where the shims would have been

1/2” but a 13mm would work, a 9/16 useful too and 5/8

Could be mot failure , so best get it sorted either way , one less annoying noise to suffer 😀 https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles/2-steering

ive taken the roof off mine a few summers now, you need a tailgate for the tub, for the seat belts I dont use the top mount and dont use an extra bar to hold the belts up higher. it would probably make it a useful addition but the mod can be done for the price of second hand tailgate think mine...

I believe so , you will get more info if you use the search feature too If you remove the wire from each sender it should show full on the gauge

Yes your correct they have one in top and one in bottom it I’ve only removed the bottom previously

You’re right it should I’ve posted that same link loads a times

Try with one wheel on ground when shaking other one for play, you said earlier you had 1” of vertical play , so you have lots play horizontal as well , as anaconda says what’s your wheel bearing like

Section 60-1 on the workshop manual in the link I sent Top and bottom bushes sit in a recess in the ball press fit , so big hammers and drifts to knock them out and same to get new ones in

http://smithies.co.nz/land_rover/ Workshop manual here too to supplement steam wally

The pin tightens down into the bush , the bush is pressed into the top of the ball tightly and the tufnel washer sits under the pin so not metal rubbing on metal and provides a low ish friction allowing ball to swivel even when pin tight, the shims ensure not too much load on the bush which...

Yes it sits under the pin and between it and the ball , 1” play… something odd going on

Have you still got the tufnel thrust washer in place and not worn away If you add shims under the pin you will increase the play, how much play do you have

Wild falcon = wild goose http://smithies.co.nz/land_rover/

Scary vid particularly if you’re nit sure what’s happening, hope you get it sorted soon Can any bits get pushed through inlet valves