I concur with marjon. Could be a propshaft or a driveshaft issue, particularly if the vehicle missed the Q041 Service Action. If it is, the output shaft will be rotating when Park is selected and the parking pawl will ratchet over the teeth, making a noise. Front propshaft issue Driveshaft...

With the GM 5L40-E it’s unlikely to be an electrical or speed sensor fault. Much more likely to be an (expensive) hydraulic or mechanical one. Phil

Assuming that they’re a standard metric size, I would say that the two O-rings on each pipe are ‘113’ size i.e. with a cross-sectional diameter of ø2.62 and an I/D of ø13.94. The pipe from the cooler has an O/D of ø14.2. The two O-rings each have a back-up ring and, in addition, there’s a formed...

They replaced your transmission, torque converter and transfer box because you had a transmission overheat warning? Wow, I’m afraid they saw you coming :(. Did they not replace the main radiator and the transmission oil cooler? Losing drive sounds more serious. It may be worth having a look...

There were five different transmissions used in the L322 and you don’t state which model you have. From your question, I’ll guess that you have the ZF 6HP26 transmission? This transmission was also used by Land Rover in the Disco 3 & RRS which have a large crossmember under the transmission...

Use the proper stuff – Shell TF 0753 (Land Rover part no. IYK 500010) – because it’s the only way to guarantee that you have the right friction modifier pack for correct operation of the centre diff. clutch. It’s stupidly expensive (£25-£30/litre), but you don’t need much. Phil

Thinking some more about this, the solenoid is simply an ‘on or off’ device that moves the shift fork to one of two positions. This, in turn, moves the shifting sleeve so that the dogs on the sleeve either connect the motor shaft to the clutch-engagement mechanism at one end (solenoid on) or to...

Never tried it, but I guess some will come out because it’s pretty low down. The total capacity of the transfer box is only 1.5 litres though, so it won’t be too much! The workshop manual tells you to drain the fluid first before removing the solenoid and adds “some fluid spillage is...

Oh well. Looking on the bright side, it’s easier to replace the solenoid than the wiring loom:). Land Rover’s list price for the solenoid is around £110, but if you Google the part number IGF500011 you can probably get a better deal on-line. Do you have access to a diagnostic kit with the...

Just for the avoidance of any doubt, we’re talking about this solenoid, not the shift motor: Out of interest, I just checked one and it measured 1.2Ω Phil

If you’re sure you were measuring between pins 9 & 12 (slate & green coloured wires respectively) and you’re getting a reading below 0.2Ω then you next need to measure the resistance between the two terminals on the solenoid itself, to see if the short is in the wiring or if it’s the solenoid...

Sorry, I don’t know the answer to that. I’m sure someone else will know? Even if you don’t need it coding to the vehicle, though, the replacement ECU would still have to be calibrated to your transfer box using a capable diagnostics kit, to take account of the degree of clutch wear for the...

According to Land Rover, P0666 is either a short in the solenoid/wiring or a faulty transfer box controller. If the solenoid & its wiring check out okay, you’re left with the ECU. Good luck. Phil

Sounds like it was designed by a committee that never met :)

That’s a good point. I suspect the most difficulty you would have is when installing it, rather than removing it. When I did the teardown post shown in the link above, I managed to get the solenoid out without energising it, but it needed a lot of fiddling. That was with the transfer box...

As a short circuit in the solenoid wiring is given as a possible cause for both these error codes, it might be worth checking this out first, including testing the resistance of the solenoid itself. A resistance check between terminals 9 & 12 at the (largest) ECU connector (when disconnected...

Phil

Here Phil

Could you clarify what you mean by ‘won’t let me select drive’? Do you mean that the gear lever will not physically move to the D position, or that you can select drive with the lever but nothing happens? Phil

If it turns out not to be the battery causing the issue, it will be the inhibitor switch : Trans failsafe prog! Phil