Good point mate - I did not notice any extra warning lights when the starter or engine start were inhibited - not even the yellow engine symbol with an exclamation mark on the right which breifly illuminates at ignition on. Where the hell is the oil pressure switch anyway - I had a quick look...

Yeah -I know - if it had been manual not auto I would have cranked it back the 3" it needed to start off down my ramps but as it's the presence of oil that keeps components apart - not the car's oil pressure - the pressure being required to ensure supply and cooling - I am not too uncomfortable...

Well - I don't know either - so I am guessing. I imagine the trucks brain recorded that at the instant the engine stopped there was low pressure - so it inhibited a restart. Then I guess after a hard reset (disconnecting the battery) it enabled the starter motor but not the engine - I then...

Well I start on no throttle every time so that on it's own isn't likely to have spiked anything this time

Hoho (;-))>

I just google "landyzone freelander xxxxxxxxxxxwhateverxxxxxxx" - works fine

I started to do an oil change - popped the F1 2005 td4 up on ramps - dropped off the engine tray - drained the oil - replaced plug - then wanted to roll it off the ramp to get it level (didn't change the filter or replace the tray 'cos this was to be a flush change only) - flicked the starter...

Anyone knows that the only things you can put in any Land Rover is one bale of hay and a Collie..........nothing else fits

Wow - I didn't know that - I thought my rear door keyhole did bugger all - thanks nodge

Oops - missed that it was the V6 - sorry Darren

If you have not already done so change the crankcase ventilation filter - On my machine that cured oil p*ssig out at both ends of the engine from umpteen orifices - I'm now still drip free 5k on

When I got my 05 td4 it was p*ssiing oil from every orifice. I did the EGR mod and - more importantly - changed the fluffy filter. After a few weeks the car was completey drip free as all the oil leaks stopped. Now - the interesting thing - if I let it idle with the oil filler cap loose it would...

Be careful Nodge68 - Even though - for instance - Mich Latitude tours and Mich synchrone seemed to measure similarly (centre to ground static) on my car when I had to replace a pothole casualty with my spare - in fact they behaved very differently according to my prop revcounters. I confirmed...

This is my facelift 05 TD4

When I changed my cables etc on the first calibrate it did not go fully up - seemed too tight to the seal - so as a starting point I set the thing as loose as possible - went up OK and only JUST kissed the seal - and guess what -the fishpool dried up and never came back

as does mine

Said it before but it's worth saying it again - it's almost impossible to push in and rotate to locate the switch UNLESS you push down the brake pedal with your other hand - it's too difficult to force the pedal back with the switch. When you just do that it's so easy...........literally seconds...

Take the old one apart and you will see how the plunger ratchets in on the first pedal release - you emulated that I guess by filing it to length but that is not neccessary. Also when you take the old one apart you will probably see the eroded contact bridge that gives the problem - it's always...

You should see that the new switch's plunger is slightly further out than your old one - you have to press the brake pedal down to enable you to clip in the new switch - then when you release the pedal it pushes in the plunger to the correct length - it's impossible to click in the new switch...

I'd call that pretty good - mind you- when I took a '94 Xantia TD9 to Ireland and stooged around at 40ish and often in lower gears for a week I got 53mpg - that old cow did 35mpg round town etc at home and (not mine but a friends) would run on cookin' oil straight from the Supermarket