Hi everyone I love my freelander but hat the problems. Today I noticed smoke coming from the engine bay upon further investigation I found a pool of oil on the top of the Bell housing under the cam belt oils seems to heave been leaking there for along time however I cannot see where it is coming from I removed the rear plastic cam belt cover no oil in there. Any ideas and could it be a simple fix Googled it but nothing came up. My main concern is the oil getting on the exhaust pipe thanks in advance for any help or advice
 
There are a few places where oil can escape. The cam oil seals are the most likely place. There are 4 oil seals on the link belt end of the engine. Oil normally leaks from under the rear cover, so is difficult to spot by removing the top cover.
 
If you have not already done so change the crankcase ventilation filter - On my machine that cured oil p*ssig out at both ends of the engine from umpteen orifices - I'm now still drip free 5k on
 
If you have not already done so change the crankcase ventilation filter - On my machine that cured oil p*ssig out at both ends of the engine from umpteen orifices - I'm now still drip free 5k on

No CV filter on the KV6. It just has a simple gauze which never blocks up as it's far to course.
 
Ok next question if it is a camshaft oil seal the question is I know I can remove the inlet cam shaft sprocket and not lose the timing as the the cam belt will hold the cam in place the but can I remove the exhaust cam sprocket without losing the timing KV6 engine
 
Ok next question if it is a camshaft oil seal the question is I know I can remove the inlet cam shaft sprocket and not lose the timing as the the cam belt will hold the cam in place the but can I remove the exhaust cam sprocket without losing the timing KV6 engine

The rear link belts are keyed to the cams. So as long as you line the pulleys up correctly, the cams have to be in alignment.
 
Brillant thank you for the info phew

Here's some pictures.

Here's the pulleys lined up correctly. There are notches on the inner sides of the pulleys. I've marked them for clarity in these pictures. They point directly to each other through the pulley centre.
2012-07-02 21.17.06.jpg

The pulleys are keyed, so can only fit on the cam in the correct orientation.
20120929_143652.jpg


You can only fit the belt by sliding it over the pulleys that doesn't have the damper. Ignore the white paint on the backplate of this image. They were on there before I worked on this engine.

This is all back together with a new belt.
20120929_134648.jpg
 
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You also need to hold the pulleys so the bolt scan be removed and refitted without stressing the belts. I made up a simple tool to do it.
 
Here's some pictures.

Here's the pulleys lined up correctly. There are notches on the inner sides of the pulleys. I've marked them for clarity in these pictures. They point directly to each other through the pulley centre. View attachment 145819
The pulleys are keyed, so can only fit on the cam in the correct orientation. View attachment 145820

You can only fit the belt by sliding it over the pulleys that doesn't have the damper. Ignore the white paint on the backplate of this image. They were on there before I worked on this engine.

This is all back together with a new belt.View attachment 145823
Thank you for the photos looks simple enough thank you so much
 
Hi could you describe or show a picture or the tool you made please it would be greatly appreciated thank you

I don't have any pictures of the tool I made, but it looked like this.
Screenshot_20180401-182334.jpg

On the ends of the V section I had a bolt secured by a nut and another nut to stop the thread slipping off the pulley spokes.
 

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