Oh, bugger. You need an oscilliscope. "The signal from the ECU to the alternator should be a square wave pattern that will change with load request. “If there is no change in the pattern this signifies no request from the ECU, and further investigation is now required on the vehicle.”

Even more worrying, it is a 2001 S-type and there appears to be an early and a late alternator. The early one doesn't seem to have an aftermarket alternative! The genuine one is eye-wateringly expensive.

Not the Rangie but the Jag, more specifically, its alternator. The battery is only a year old but a few times recently it felt a bit sluggish on turnover. Charged the battery and then started it and tested voltage across the battery - 13.7V. switched on every electric thing I could find and...

Pulled a Travis Perkins delivery truck out of a muddy hole he had made for himself. He said "I don't think you'll be able to pull this. It is well and truly stuck". Well, nothing to be lost by giving it a go. Low in first and dragged the sucker straight out, helped no doubt by my somewhat chunky...

I think it depends on how much tax you want to pay and possibly how to make it VAT exempt. The tax on company cars is pretty extreme except for things like vans. All started a long while ago when people were given cars as perks to avoid tax so naturally HMRC went for it. Cars stopped being...

Where the hell does that custom exhaust go where it can burn through a brake flexi? There are 2 exhaust routes depending on whether it is pre or post '97/'98 and the brake lines similarly have 2 different routes to account for this. (There are more exhausts to account for manual and auto...

I thought the rear windows had to be blanked and the rear seats removed? There are companies that specialise in the conversion. Of course, you could just put it through the company books.

Depends which mk. A lot of Classic parts are remarkably reasonable. P38 parts can be had quite cheaply off eBay. L322 start to get pricey and L405 will require organ donations.

Slide pins causing caliper to bind on?

Be really careful inflating them. Put 50 psi in each to start with then add 10 psi at a time to each one. Shouldn't need to go above 80 psi and definitely don't go above 90 psi. I think the bags are rated for 110 psi max when new but when worn may not take that much.

That trim is held in by ****y little studs that snap for fun. I'd just disconnect and leave it alone.

Dunlop seem to last about 8 years but they're made under license in China. Had issues with Arnott 2 from Europe so wouldn't recommend those. Arnott 3 from the States are decent but cost a smegging fortune. I reckon you'd be licky to see 5 years out of Britpart, assuming the end cap doesn't pop...

Shouldn't be any silicone on those threads.

I'm not sure how or why the NAS one might be different but the answer might be in RAVE. From memory the (European spec) canister collects vapours when parked. When running a valve opens and draws the vapours through into the engine where they burn off. If pressure builds too high for any reason...

No and no. It'll be fine with all 3 disabled. Essentially there are multiple layers of security and not all can be switched off, even with the Nanocom. It was after all the car thefts in the eighties and car manufacturers finally responded.

Rare for the turbos to fail on these, unless soneone had a play with the waste gate trying to get more power.

There's a hole in the flywheel just before the TDC one but about 20% out. Then of course you could be 180° out? Timing using the dial guage will of course matter but it normally isn't that sensitive. If you play with the pump top that's sensitive as hell.

That's kind of me, albeit I am using while I get around to finishing it.

It is amazing how well they perform with a ton of logs in the back, especially with the air suspension.

Probably just the accumulator (sphere). Try that first. Pumps tend to be very reliable. The pressure switch would be the next port of call. Sphere first. I think Mark found some cheaper OEM ones somewhere.