Yeah that's correct....good plan! 👍

I've a dual battery system on my 110 managed by a T-Max system. I find if I link the two batteries together the engine turns over just as I'd expect - a couple of cranks and away she goes. Am I right in thinking I need a new main battery as it's not performing standalone? Ta!

Unfortunately doesn't work. Changed according to the Nanocom guide, 'Write to ECU' and it automatically reverts to the previous set of codes.

Yes, I'll try again a little later. Just glad its started up for now :rolleyes: I just posted another thread about the Rocker Shaft.... to do or not to do...its never ending eh? So before I do this - essentially, change the last (5th) letter to the corresponding number in the list above...

Thanks! Too right re priming!! Re' changing the codes, a couple of things... Do the codes match the order of the cylinders going from 1 (at the front of the vehicle, then 2, 4, 5 and 3...i.e. firing order)? Or are the injectors number 1,2,3,4,5 from the front? I did try changing them before...

Hi, With all the issues I had with the adjuster screws recently I bought another rocker shaft. It's for a 15p engine (mines a 10p) but I understand the 15p version is an upgrade for the 10p. Has anyone found this to be anything other than correct? Question is, is the 'upgrade' worth the...

So, it's all about PRIME PRIME PRIME!!! I had only just read that with a fully charged battery and after priming process a few times start engine with throttle FULLY DEPRESSED....voilà, a few turns, a cough and splutter and a LOT of smoke and away she went. Turns over nice now. Charing battery...

Thanks, The injector codes in the top of the injectors is different from those the Nanocom reports. I've tried priming too, a couple of times with no success. It's not even trying to start....just turning over and over with no bite

@Semicolon @Anaconda So chaps, I managed to re-fit it all - had a Snapon Tap 'n Die to the rescue re the adjuster screw. However, she turns over but won't start - do I need to program in the injector codes I noted from the top of the injectors using the Nanocom? One thing I didn't understand...

Well, it was set according to the Defender2 website, they've been pretty watertight to date. Engine turned, injector at lowest point cam at highest etc ...

@Anaconda Yep, thats almost DEFINITELY what I have done, makes sense....thanks!

The other thing I noticed was its almost impossible to tighten the nut without the adjuster moving again.

Yeah, and very single video and walkthrough I have watched didn't bother. :rolleyes:

But the torque for the nut after adjusting the screw is only 16Nm......I was WAY off that - the nut just needing back off to allow the adjuster to be wound in, so I tried to loosen again, and they were stiff as Seriously, I took every precaution, its got me beat! Ordered another assembly off...

So, don't ask me how but after tightening (not torquing) these up they are now useless. Threads must be made of chocolate or something. Good job I'm on a hill so I can roll it back to the farmhouse. Great, just great 🤬🤬🤬

Yep, thats it...same with a second one. Nut is stuck fast on the thread.....tried heating it up, WD, copper seal etc....its Fooked!!! Can't believe it...waited all week to do this and the scariest bit was getting the injectors out - I didn't think I'd have any problem merely putting it back...

Absolutely locked solid....I mean WTF!!! Can't shift two out of three of them....

FFS! It was all going so well.....changed injector seals and washers, I was forensic in terms of numbering everything.....putting it back together and got as far as tightening down the adjuster screws. Wasn't sure if I had turned them back out a full turn so tried again but this time the nut in...

*** Sorted *** Found this, just in case anyone searches and is looking for the same: Workshop - Injector Removal / Seal and Washer Replacement. Rotate the engine until No1 Cylinder is at TDC (top dead centre). No1 is the pulley end of the engine. There is a couple of ways to know when No 1...

Hi, I am changing the seals and washer at the weekend. I watched this really good and comprehensive video and note that he cranks the engine a little but doesn't say why other than to see the rockers rise and fall.... Can someone explain why he does this please? Injector Seals and Washers Thanks!