tweedandbriar

tweedandbriar

Active Member
FFS! It was all going so well.....changed injector seals and washers, I was forensic in terms of numbering everything.....putting it back together and got as far as tightening down the adjuster screws. Wasn't sure if I had turned them back out a full turn so tried again but this time the nut in the picture is stuck fast...I mean STUCK!!! I cannot work out what the hell i have done - I didn't even get as far as torquing them tight......any advice and help welcomed as currently I have a large paperweight hanging out of my garage :(

NUT.jpg
 
Anaconda said:
Is that the current picture, looks like the nut is only half way down the threaded stud?
Click to expand...
Yep, thats it...same with a second one. Nut is stuck fast on the thread.....tried heating it up, WD, copper seal etc....its Fooked!!! Can't believe it...waited all week to do this and the scariest bit was getting the injectors out - I didn't think I'd have any problem merely putting it back together!
 
So, don't ask me how but after tightening (not torquing) these up they are now useless. Threads must be made of chocolate or something.

Good job I'm on a hill so I can roll it back to the farmhouse.

Great, just great 🤬🤬🤬

IMG_20240907_123615.jpg
 
boguing said:
I can only think that your definition of tight is too much. They only need to be a little more than nipped up.
Click to expand...

But the torque for the nut after adjusting the screw is only 16Nm......I was WAY off that - the nut just needing back off to allow the adjuster to be wound in, so I tried to loosen again, and they were stiff as Seriously, I took every precaution, its got me beat!

Ordered another assembly off flea bay now I can't find a replacement arm with adjustment screw and nut. Worst case scenario I can always leach a rocker arm of the replacement.
 
And, if you read the guide you linked to in your other thread it says that the official advice is to change the adjusters and nuts for new. Dunno why, but suspect that you've found out!
 
boguing said:
And, if you read the guide you linked to in your other thread it says that the official advice is to change the adjusters and nuts for new. Dunno why, but suspect that you've found out!
Click to expand...

Yeah, and very single video and walkthrough I have watched didn't bother. :rolleyes:
 
I haven't done that job before on a TD5 but I wonder if you have gone too far down the stud, to where the thread ends, in doing so buggered up the thread.
16nm isn't very tight in the grand scheme of things.
 
tweedandbriar said:
The other thing I noticed was its almost impossible to tighten the nut without the adjuster moving again.
Click to expand...
It can be a bit of a pain, have to be patient and in doubt do it again.
When I did the rockers on the tdi I checked 4 times before being happy, in-between turning the engine through a complete revolution.
 
Anaconda said:
The question is, should that be possible if the engine is set in the correct position?
Click to expand...
Well, it was set according to the Defender2 website, they've been pretty watertight to date. Engine turned, injector at lowest point cam at highest etc ...
 
As a double check, when I did mine, I noticed that there are numbers stamped on the cam end denoting which cylinder is at TDC. If you look down the hole next to the locking pin hole as you turn the engine over you should see them. This removes the doubt as to the height of the rocker.
ps, the nuts do seem to cross-thread easily, I guess I just got lucky being able to loosen mine off before torquing it down!!
 
@Semicolon @Anaconda

So chaps, I managed to re-fit it all - had a Snapon Tap 'n Die to the rescue re the adjuster screw.

However, she turns over but won't start - do I need to program in the injector codes I noted from the top of the injectors using the Nanocom?

One thing I didn't understand was when getting everything et up, the various guides suggest setting TDC using and 'timing Pin' to lock it in place. So I did that, but then had to remove the pin to ensure the various cams were at full height before tackling the adjusters. So whats the point of setting to TDC then not???

I suspect the timing is well out now so I guess will have to start from scratch??

Nanocom reports no fault and injectors all tested fine and fuel pump working ok. Primed fuel after replacing line etc...

All help welcomed of course!
 
Last edited:
You shouldn't have disturbed the timing at all, unless you removed the cam chain drive. If not, timming will be set as before your work was done.
Injector Codes will not be altered unless you didn't put the injectors back in the same positions. You could make a check on the Codes programmed in the ECU against what you now have recorded to ensure they were originally correct.
I would try priming the fuel again in case of an airlock.

What do you mean "injector codes I noted from the top of the injectors using the Nanocom?"
 
Last edited:
Tim4x4 said:
You shouldn't have disturbed the timing at all, unless you removed the cam chain drive. If not, timming will be set as before your work was done.
Injector Codes will not be altered unless you didn't put the injectors back in the same positions. You could make a check on the Codes programmed in the ECU against what you now have recorded to ensure they were originally correct.
I would try priming the fuel again in case of an airlock.

What do you mean "injector codes I noted from the top of the injectors using the Nanocom?"
Click to expand...
Thanks,

The injector codes in the top of the injectors is different from those the Nanocom reports. I've tried priming too, a couple of times with no success. It's not even trying to start....just turning over and over with no bite
 
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