Ok. I’ll have a gander at the wiring schematic to see if my loom has connections behind the centre consol. I’ve already fitted the armrest box from a later model so I could fit those heated seat switches there - I already moved the window switches there and the upper two could be for the seats...

Can someone knowledgeable tell me if early FL1 are wired for heated seats? I’ve found an ‘03 V6 being parted out. It’s has very nice leather seats and heated too. Maybe they would be an easy fit in my 1998 FL1?😊

No pump sound? check fuse #1 Mine is NBG too but I have pump sound so I suspect a blockage some place in the pipeline. Possibly the non-return valve - where-ever that is.

Thanks GG. I eventually worked out where they were originally placed. Yes, I've added a centre arm rest/cubby a few years ago and I moved the window switches to the lower two switches on it. I'm thinking of moving the rear window and central locking switches to the upper positions and using...

I've purchased a heated seat kit and plan to fit it to my FL1. Heated seats were an option on the higher spec models. Where exactly were the electrical switches located for the seats and is their a wiring loom connection under the front seats?

Totally agree with that - even with my tweeks to the head & inlet... when towing my wee trailer it can still be a 3rd gear chug up steep hills - sigh

Tricky - What engine is it? If it's the K series 1.8 then no-one would recommend using a sealing compound like 'K seal... Rad weld...' It looks like the coolant is tracking along that crimped edge on the plastic side tank - is that correct? You could remove the radiator and pop into a radiator...

Visited an auto wrecker today [ scrappy], as they'd advertised a Freelander 1 ready for dismantling. Actually they had two! I managed to get a pair of door mirrors, a driver's rubber floor mat which is much better that mine, the rubber 'ties' which hold the jack in place, a engine oil dipstick...

Hmm you're responding to a thread from 2012. Yes, on the Freelander 1 new tyres are supposed to go on the rear axle. All four tyres should be the same size, brand and inflation. A tyre pressure monitoring system is a good idea and I've fitted one to my 1998 FL1. There is lots of info' on here...

Would the V6 possibly have the 'heavier' one?

Is the anti roll bar on a facelift, or later Freelander 1, a stronger unit than fitted to the earlier model?

Well OK, just drove it. To Pleasnant Point South Canterbury NZ. Took a stroll to see the local steam preservation railway. Loco is now wood fired as coal is no £800+ per tonne! Railcar is a model T powered unit.

Pretty good effort from Rimmers and DHL here - Ordered a new starter motor on Thursday April 20, arrived the following Thursday. Fitted it on Saturday :)

OEM starter was $218 freight $85 & $44 GST so about $345 in all. I priced at 2 different auto electricians both indicated between $400 & $500

Starter problem. I was away on holiday over Easter and the FL1 wouldn't start one morning. Absolutely nothing. No solenoid clicking, no turning over - nothing. I thought it could have been the immobiliser in action and that maybe the fob battery was flat. I managed to find a replacement battery...

This is my 9th year of running my 1.8 K series FL1. Replaced the VCU & its bearings, upgraded the coil springs as the original were getting 'tired', Drivers door latch, 2 FLH wheel bearings and a RLH wheel bearing, a fuel pump, [not sure if you'd count these: brake system: rotors & drums, wheel...

Do the L series have a heavier duty starter than the petrol 1800 or V6?

That's a very kind offer - I'd guess that if the hub housing breaks then it probably couldn't be refitted. I think there is one at Hunt's in Ashburton. :)

No car at the mo' Failed its WoF [MOT] on a noisey Rear wheel bearing. The w'shop tried to dismantle the hub but the driveshaft splines are pretty well seized... That was before Christmas. Back again and they pulled the drive shaft and hub assembly off and sent it to an engineering shop to...

Engine earth secure?