I've started the process of removing all the modules to see which one is causing the bother and decided that the smart move would be to go with the one thing that I know for sure doesn't work, the FBH. It wasn't that but at least it made me remove it so that I can fix that later; every cloud...

Have now done a Battery Replacement routine (that was embarrassing). It made 100 yards almost before suspension fault but other than that, no change. Same faults. I really think that the suspension fault is just the issue it will show on the dash, not necessarily the cause of my problems.

I don't have those things fitted. I haven't changed anything at all and no,I haven't told it that it has a new battery, didn't know I needed to on this one, never seen it as an option. I think we can ignore the not-fitted items as it is just communicating so poorly that it can't seem to get a...

Agreed. What is the common denominator here? What goes and checks everything when you turn on the ignition? Is it the BCM? I must have something failed that is common to everything else I wouldn't get the same failure on every module which is all "lost signal/short to ground/etc."

Righto, moving on from my battery drain issue, I have replaced the battery (again) so it's not that at fault but I have every single module failed in the car according to it but also, everything works just fine(ish). I could list all of the faults out but you will die of boredom scrolling...

Not sure if this will be of help to you but have a read through this lot: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/lets-have-your-technical-opinions-then-coolant-leak-and-cracked-manifold.381697/ When I got mine it had a very slight coolant leak which quickly escalated. It was the alloy pipe...

Edited after rereading StuStrong's post. This is the valve you are talking about I guess but I'd be surprised at that design as I was under the impression that the FBH should shut off around 70ºc too avoid opening the thermostat and thus losing heat out of the main radiator. That being the...

"JUST FIX MY CAR!"

I've had a search around here and I can only seem to find similar issues when it's more of a parasitic drain. My car however seems to have a huge current draw when the ignition is switched on so I'm wondering if any of you have seen this yourselves. Sorry, this will be a long post to explain...

You bought a new one and you have a warranty as well as support, yes, it was a bit more expensive but trust me, you won't be thinking about the cost of it when you've used it a few times. I have one and I've used it on our L322, the wife's Disco 4 and her best friend's Disco 4. Buying the...

That's how I know the board is knackered. it doesn't signal the fuel pump nor does it fire the glow plug. You can only prime the pump manually (by putting power to pin 6 repeatedly). Do they cause more pollution than a v8 diesel not achieving operating temperature quickly? Are the electric...

I got updates! I found the dosing pump, it's not actually as bad to get to as I thought, it's only just on the RH side of the car above the diff and accessible with relative ease... well for a Range Rover anyway. I reversed the car up on to my (reinforced) ramps, fiddled about slightly...

No, I didn't mean that. I meant I will prime the pump and use a syringe to pull from the tank to where the pump is so that it isn't running dry to start with as that's the hardest bit of work it will need to do. I still can't see the pump under the car and your diagram makes it look as...

It's not fuse 59 on the facelift car, there's nothing in it and shows as not used on the diagram. Found quite a lot of people saying the same thing on the 2010> too. On FullfatRR there is a post saying it's in the under bonnet fusebox and saying it's Fuse E8. I didn't know there was a fusebox...

I've ordered a fuel pump for it, had a quick look under the car earlier but I couldn't see it, is it above the tank cover or accessible from under the seat (doubtful the seat) but if anyone knows please share.

If I'm honest, I haven't heard it, the coolant pump and fan runs up as part of the startup sequence but of course until there is fuel, we won't get a glow plug. I'll have to have a look underneath for the pump. I might just replace that anyway as it is likely seized up, I have no idea how long...

Top man, thanks! There is a lot of info that suggests you need to pull fuse 59 (?) but when I checked, I don't have that anyway and as my car is a 2010 model it has the tele start pre-wired so there's every chance that LR moved some wiring around. As for my GapIID, I have no idea what's going...

The bottom left two are for the fan and pump but another search has revealed that one at the top left of the board as causing this issue. It may not directly the control the glow plug but if as you suggest it is for the microprocessor it could cause the error as in not being able to activate...

I found last year that my FBH doesn't work so I decided I would sort it when the weather warmed up and then of course I didn't do anything about it! Last weekend I removed it and a friend of mine made a straight coupler for me from some brass stock on his lathe so that I could plumb it out for...

It was actually on Sunday but I collected a little Fiat 500 for my 82 year-old aunt who has recently been given the all clear to start driving again after a minor stroke last year. She is VERY excited! <900kg of small car on a frame? The L322 didn't even notice that on the back for 80 miles