The track 3 output is, if anything, worse than the first dataset. That would point to the potentiometer breaking up, but the fact that it hit 8v means that can't be the (sole) problem because it only gets 5 in. The MAF is low. They both connect to different plugs on the ECU, so the only common...

Some other weapons. Permatex 81730 is a 'thinner' sealant that will, to an extent, flow into gaps that you'd otherwise be smearing silicon over. Done right it's more or less invisible. For cracks less than 1mm, Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure is unbeatable. It's thinner than water, trying...

You can see that 1&2 are doing exactly what they should here, and 3 (yellow) is in cloud cuckoo land. I've no idea what the sampling rate is but it looks very slow, and I bet yellow would be far more interesting if the rate was higher.

Actually, I couldn't wait. The third track is all over the place, and should never show 0v or 6v. I think that's at least part of the problem.

Got it. The potentiometer has two or three tracks, depending on age of the car. In both, track A goes from low resistance throttle closed, to high resistance when fully open. Track B does the reverse, and as you say the values should sum to 5v. Track C gives more accuracy, but checking its value...

I'm way out of my depth on how the td5 works, but are these tracks the resistance circles in the potentiometer? Just recalling that the dead Citroen I mentioned had two, and it was one of the wiper brushes that had fallen apart.

Fair enough, I've no idea what the absolute values should be but having thought af was spikey, I now see that it's in keeping.

I've change my mind about the airflow. Here's airflow and rpm. Just what you'd expect.

Certainly looks like the MAF is giving some pretty variable data.

Was that logging while you were driving? (Or, what was making the revs go up and down?).

If it were me I'd be exhausting the diagnostics before trying part swaps. As I said above, if you can watch the output, then do it. Move the pedal through its range. If no spikes then wiggle wires thoroughly to check for spikes caused by a break or poor contact. If nothing happens with either...

@Anaconda mentioned that you should be able to see the throttle operation in the diagnostics. If yours does show it then you're looking for a straight line on the graph. If there are any spikes you may have found a problem.

I had to scrap a perfectly good car because Citroen had decided it was cool to design their own potentiometer for the throttle body than to find a way to use a 20p one off the shelf. Replacement of the whole thing was £400.

Potentiometer. I'd assumed the pedal relied on a rotary counter, but if @tottot mentioned pots. Edit. And they come in two main flavours, wire wound and graphite/carbon. Guess which is more reliable and expensive?

I'd bow to others experience to the contrary, but unless it's a broken wire they either work or not.

If it's a carbon pot that could well be the problem. If it starts to break up the output goes haywire. It's the reason volume controls on analogue audio makes the scratchy noise. (And can be fixed on audio gear by grinding the bits down with repeated twisting of the knob - not reliably enough to...

It will if you point a hose at the break. Normal rain and driving, not much.

It's paying it back. I asked the nearby Lotus dealer if my son could have a sit in an Exige for his seventh birthday. They not only took him for a good long drive, but loaded him up with Lotus goodies (and then took his sister for a shot too). Thanks again to Bell and Colvill!

I've just had a chat with Phil and said I'm up for it if the weather's good. CBAW putting the roof on!

I think what people are asking is - did this happen straight after the remap? If not, did it happen before or after? And finally, why the second remap?