Yes 4.4 bmw petrol v8, rare ish. I would say 99 percent of d3 were the diesel 2.7.

Yes. Had one the other day on a transit tipper, no play whatsoever, bit of duck oil changed the noise so then knew that u/j was fubar. Grease guns and grease cheap from machine mart etc.

Read post number 4 again.

No play does not equal joint is okay, are they greaseable? and if they are is grease coming out of every cup?

That is pretty much the only tool I get the defenders out for.

If you have enough air then needle guns are pretty handy tools.

Thought about time I waxed the old girl as not done for a few years now, what a sorry mess, tank guard totally rotted off, only 18 years old as well! Think to myself I can weld this no issues, turns out it is proper shagged, and thought to myself it is Sunday, I am grovelling around in crap to...

That looks really clean, the one score mark on the tapered part shows it has not been ****ted with, as people rotate the thing clockwise to get more fuel at lower rpms, this then leaves another score mark as evidence. It should be dry in there, I have never personally seen anything apart from...

you remove that top cover You lift out the diaphragm At the very bottom of the hole is a little pin that should slide into as you apply the throttle this is the little pin that rise up and down on the tapered part of the boost pin The bottom pin is the part that can seize

it was a long time ago when I ran the cable into the car through the Grommet I believe the Gromit is for the clutch pipe for the manual version so if yours is a manual you do not have a spare Grommet if that makes sense?

Well once you eliminate everything else, the only thing left is the injector pump itself. Have you check the fuel pin to see if it is seizing/seized? Just to confirm it did not do the stalling thing until the mech changed the cambelt?

Just had a thought, have you checked the valve clearances?

Has the inj pump been messed with? I ask as the only time I have seen a near stall when pedal released was when I backed my fuel screw off a knatts cock to much. Cannot hurt to tweak the idle screw a little. Is it a 200 or 300 injection pump? 200 is bare bones basci pump, 300 got more techy and...

Nowheres near enough grease to fill the diffs, so mabe he added it to new diff oil?

Change the nut to an M10 flanged nut, these then have a 15mm head which means a smaller socket can be used, and because it has a flange you can push it onto the stud, same for gbox to flywheel housing nuts.

I often use an old saying at work, if there is any doubt then there is no doubt, ie if you have to think is it shagged? then the answer is yes. Years ago they would do what they called top and tail, basically new main and big end shells with new rings, and away you went, not perfect but it worked.

it might pay to join the series 2 forum and have an ask on there, there are some very knowledgeable people on there.

By shuttle the mechanic might mean the sliding gear dog that changes the transfer box between high and low ratio.

I would hazard a guess that number is just the casting number, and not the part number. I do not think anyone is still commercially rebuilding series gearboxes anymore?

Rotate inj pump until proper timing hole lines up, then check the crank flywheel slot is visible, if no go rotate crank 360 and try again, obviously using the crank bolt to rotate engine and not the inj pump nut, sorry if teaching you to suck eggs! I have never done it, but I have been told it...