Gas bottles or map gas maybe. Don't get it too hot though, being reinforced it might prove a problem. Large flat hammer or flat metal bar as mentioned above to help minimise damage.

Hammer? You might need to heat it a bit and make an implement to slot behind to give it support when you hit it.. Otherwise replacement is an option.

Straighten them up, put the captive nuts on and space the hinges out if need be. Maybe the doors have been forced round with no check strap on there.

Quality light bar will tell you how many amps it will draw, should also have the wire size stamped on the insulation of the supplied loom, along with relay, fuse holder and maybe switch aswell. Some are really quite powerful and need a good size cable. Joining an additional loom with the...

These old land rovers need constant fiddling with for a while, you will then hit a sweet spot and it will work fine, for a week then start again! Only joking. When we got the 2a, with a years mot, the fuel tank decided it only wanted to be half full before leaking out. Had some stupid rad with...

Yes those are the ones. I have located some bolts now but with postage it makes for expensive bolts. Oh well.

Yes, I know that also. It's a bit like the insurance company listing lorry drivers high risk occupation, why is that? You can hardly use your own car in place of the lorry! It seems to me every occupation is high risk according to insurance companies. Farming is probably high risk incase you use...

That is true of course but most likely from their point of view you would be using it for motor trade or similar.

Heads on the bolts are a little bit rounded off, any reason I can't use cap head bolts? Local nut & bolt place don't do M8 flange bolts with a 10mm head.

Tiger seal is a PU adhesive.

Closer to 60 than 30. My fully comp always used to cover me 3rd party for any car. Now I can't even get that.

Thinking about it that would cost a pretty penny for you to insure yourself for every car in the country. As mentioned you can get short term cover for a particular journey and particular vehicle.

No, most are 3rd party only, I can't even get that. Long gone are the days it used to come standard on fully comp policy.

My understanding is it cranks over but doesn't start, therefore the OP needs to check for fuel, live at the shut off valve, use a jumper wire to shut off valve to bypass the rest of the vehicle. Once the fuel is out of the equation then the wiring fault can be traced back.

A jump lead is not suitable, you need a wire with a spade connector on the end to plug into the fuel shut of valve/solenoid. Have you located the injection pump and shut off valve yet? You have had it running so the shut off valve seems to work. I am presuming it only has 1 wire on it. When you...

Custom covers limited £75 5 years ago. You do have to be relatively careful with it but worked well.

When it stops working again, check for a live on the fuel shut off solenoid. Carry a spare bit of wire to bypass it as I suggested. If it's working at the moment it sound like the solenoid itself might be ok.

Is it the circlip you are having a problem with? The seal should come out like any other seal really. I guess it's pretty much the same set up as a Defender, some good videos on YouTube.

According to Google then no it won't fit as the bolt holes are different.