If you have the same voltage on both gauge terminals then it won't read anything! Check connectors to sender in the tank and the earth return.

Is this the one? 272506 - Engine Mounting Bracket Angle Adaptor RH Front

If the slave has failed it usually leaks - but you haven't seen any loss of fluid. It could be the slave pushrod or something amiss in the operating mechanism in the bellhousing. Just a thought - is the slave cylinder in the right way up with the bleed nipple to the top? Wouldn't be the first...

"performance" on a series? from chassis bushes? Don't make me laugh! Seriously, the poly will be easier to remove but they're not exactly bits you replace annually. Fitting is marginally easier on the polys too, but the standard bushes just need a bit of a tap. Taking the old ones out will be...

Its on page 1M 03. Part number 601861 is the operating lever and the bit that's broken off has bolt 601864 screwed into it - thats the bit that is still on your choke inner cable. You have a different outer cable clip, it's like the one on a carb I had. I know the bent metal bodge works 'cos I...

The bit clamped to the cable inner should be fitted in the hole at the bottom of the choke operating lever, looks like it's broken off - the clip is missing for the outer. A bit of bent steel plate with a hole in it and a nut and bolt will sort this. There's a good exploded drawing in the parts...

From my experience - with a fairly worn petrol S3 - any battery that fits in the tray with the right connectors should do fine. You don't need a lot of cranking amps if the engine is a bit down on compression. As long as the battery is new and holds charge well, the alternator is producing...

Diff pinion seal isn't a difficult job, might as well replace it.

1/4" UNF, 1/2 inch long if it's the dash on a series 3. Parts book is available on line.

Broken spring on the reverse stop mechanism? Have a look in the book - it shows how the selectors work, they're easy enough to access.

Try asking in the defender forum? The series front end is a bit different..

if it's just a nut and bolt, use anything that fits - the thread size is immaterial.

Get it recored - looks like there are places near you that do it. At least it'll fit!

Have a look under the bonnet with the engine running in the dark - any HT running to ground will be easy enough to see. Diagnosed a cracked coil once like this. Won't help if the damp is in the dizzy, though. WD40 is your friend.....

Bit confused by the photo - is it the seal that runs on the swivel ball you need? to help you identify it here's a link to the parts book. http://www.landroverweb.com/landrover/pdf-land-rover-manuals/ If it's the swivel seal there's a better cheat that doesn't involve cutting the seal. Remove...

The manual has a guide to the correct metric/imperial fittings, they're cheap enough to buy. The flaring kit is easy to use. Making your own brake pipes is a good skill to have, it's worth doing a couple of practice flares before trying to make a real one. Link to the official manual...

Sounds like the fuel is boiling in the carb! Isn't there supposed to be an insulating piece between the carb and manifold?

Seal was probably fitted with gasket sealant and would have been further sealed in with corrosion and crud so it would have felt tight coming out. A bit of goo on the replacement seal is a good idea....

Bleed the clutch - and make sure someone hasn't put the slave cylinder upside down. Replacing all the fluid is a good idea, too. Is there any sign of hydraulic fluid dripping out of the bellhousing?

Never had an issue with back to black coming off on my hands. Does a good job on plastics and rubber, use a toothbrush on knobbly surfaces.