Can't say I agree with this. Oilless compressors are noisy and tend to have shorter lifespans than a proper compressor head/motor combination. They also in my experience tend to have...optimistic...ratings. As far as the oil in the lines, use a good filter/dryer combo before the gun and save...

If you really, really can't get the damn things out I might suggest a vacuum pump (Mity-Vac or the like) and a tube - suck the oil out of the housing. it's definitely second best, but if it really doesn't want to budge it's a way around ttthe difficulty.

They may not be hexagonal but there are items available called rivnuts or rivet nuts. They are applied using a tool not unlike a pop riveter into pre-drilled holes. However, many folks just use plain hardware with shakeproof nuts - no particular need there for a rivet nut as the back of the...

The expensive one you showed is an aftermarket pressed tank - I've had them rot out on me more than once. Go with whatever fits and is reasonable quality. I wouldn't get too excited over the shape of the tank - that changed several times in the lifetime of the Series truck. You want an annoying...

Depends on the aftermarket carb in my opinion. A cheap Chinese knockoff will likely warp on you after a few tens of thousands of miles, and will likely never run right. Take the top cover off the 34ICH and clean the needle valve. it's not at all difficult. While you're there, spray some carb...

Re: III vs: 2A: Too much plastic, and a markedly inferior build quality. When they went to the more modern design with the binnacle in front of the driver thematerials used were not well suited to longevity. I don;t know how many of those stupid binnacles I've had to plastic weld for...

I've owned most of the older ones up to (let's see) the D2. Wer it me and wannting to go somewhere with no support, my IIA would be the answer, closely followed by my 110. Tough, no-nonsense vehicles, simple to maintain and not a computer in sight other than my iPod. :) Barring that, it would...

Well? :)

The alternate there if you don't want to deal with the noise and the pipework on a TDi is the 2.5D. Pretty simple to fit, better power than the (god I hate those engines) 2.25D and simple to maintain. I have one in my 110 and my 109 (ex-Diesel originally) is going to get one as well. Nice...

No idea on the bumperettes - my ex-MOD 110 has them but that is no indicator. If you like them and the traffic around you is daft enough to tangle with a Land-Rover go ahead and fit them. :) As far as the oil cooler goes you do have the chassis mounts for one - the mounting plates are there...

OK, a few things here to try. First off, take the aerial itself off and start measuring the cabling. Check outside of the connector to inner - should be infinite ohms. Check end-to-end on the inner conductor - should read very low ohms (at worst 1 or 2 ). Has this antenna ever been used on a...

the 8 small seals are valve seals, they go under the valve springs and on the valves themselves. if you haven;t disturbed the valves the old ones are still in place, though changing them isn;t difficult and I have yet to meet a 2.25 or 2.5 that can't use them. Not sure on the other two.

Planning on an underbody light kit too? :) More seriously, I did the radius arms on my daughter's RRC in yellow - she liked it. Had she kept the car (traded up to a D1 then a D2) I likely would have been persuaded to do the same for the braking components on it.

Got the new-to-me 2.5D from the 83 110 out of my truck over the weekend and gave it a thorough cleaning. One thing I was amazed to see was a timing pointer on the timing belt cover! :eek: Anyone ever seen one of those on a 2.5D either? I expect this is something that got deleted after the 83...

Re: find number: Nope - didn't do that to that truck or any other. I have done it with reproduction cast items for "antiquing" the look. SWMBO is very fussy about the silly statuary she clutters up the garden with. :) Alan

As far as stampings on S.1, early ones IIRC were stamped near the offside motor mount. CKDs continued to do that in AU when built up by certain companies - my 1954 86 (ex-AU) was one of them and caused me no end of grief when registering it here in the US as the old AU reg used the motor number...

Re: Rust it up: A quick brush on of brick acid (hydrochloric acid), followed by a rinse and a weirebrushing with oil to "clean Up" the surface is quite effective. Do not ask how I know this.

Yep - not a huge surprise. Were it me I'd shoot them all just to have the satisfaction - but that is just me. I do have a press and all the splitters and such so for me it's not a trial - but if they feel good you can likely leave them in-situ in the transfer. In the garabox though - the only...

When I do them I strip and clean in Techron - a fuel injector cleaner sold here in the States by Chevron for adding to gasoline to clean fuel injectors. Gets the crud off them quickly and doesn't smell too hellishly bad. After that I reassemble and set the pop pressure (I have a machine to...

+1 on dot4. I use Castrol exclusively - had a cheaper DOT4 fluid eat my braking system several years ago and now I flat-out refuse to use anything but.