Makes perfect sense. The lift pump doesn;t need to be completely dead just incapable of keeping up with the fuel needs at speed. When you;re going up thru the gears you;re revving the engine and the pump keeps up because it's hammering away down there. I just had a similar situation on a IIA...

From the sound of it i suspect fuel - exhaust simply would cause it to overheat i suspect...and wouldn;t run well at all. Lift pump would be my first thought - but please describe more of the scenario around this. Is this a new problem, or something on a new-to you car, or what? Details...

Heat and penetrating oil. Remove the track rod from the car and clean the joints thoroughly where the track rods screw in. Get in and scrape out the pinch clamp bit and remove the clamps - slide them back out of the way. Heat the tube at the join (not the track rod end - you want differential...

If you're getting puffs out the exhaust then you are getting fuel in the right places. Sounds to me like crankking speed and/or glow plugs not working. Charge the battery and/or jump it off something with a BIG battery and then see what happens.

+1 what Adrian said. You need to determine of you are actually overheating or if it's a gauge issue. Is this a sudden change, or is this something that's happeing with a new-to-you car? Check the obvious things as well - water pump belt tight enough, water actually circulating in the...

If you are getting fuel to the injectors and the valves are operating then I would suggest crankiing speed is deficient. Charge the battery and try again. Also check that the glows are doing their thing properly, though an engine in goood nick should fire without them with a bit of cranking...

Bleed the injectors, make sure you have the fuel stop in the proper position. Just crack off the fittings at the injectors and crank it till you see fuel at the fittings. Retighten and try it again.

Re: Length diifference: You might wqant to do yourself a big favour and have a good look at the chassis. Get in there, clean it up and make VERY sure you don't have a crack or something developing. That could ruin your whole day. As the old springs were fine for a very long time I suspect there...

Re: Leisure use: Go for it - for that they will be more than fine. Personally I'm not sure the charging will be ideal because the rate of charge on these needs to be low, but the split charge adapter I would expect should keep the charge to a moderate value. The big issue with using a battery...

There is a procedure written by ROver for adjustment of the rear brakes on a 109 I've found convenient over the years. In short, it suggests adjusting the snail cams with the brake pedal being pressed by an associate. This was formulated in response to the numerous complaints about crappy brakes...

Nice to see we're in strenuous agreement, then. :) For offline power for things other than a winch (see starting battery==bad idea) these would be ideal. In my caravan (but remember I'm a technogeek) I have an AGM battery - basically the sameas an Optima deep-cycle but industrial.

You don't want to do that. Those are "gel-cell" batteries and really aren't suited to the heavy drain and hard recharge cycle of automotive use. Loevely cells for use in a caravan where you deep discharge and recharge or a UPS (which is likely where they're from) but not for starting...

No, i'm not from Canada either...anymore. :) New England suits me just fine...a bit flatter than the bit West Slope is from, but the weather's more interesting. Alan

And to wrap it up... The "new" 2.5D is in the engine compartment and propelled me to work this morning at a steady 60-65 MPH with no strain. I ended up replacing a piston (cracked..found that out on startup...lying sack of clods seller...) and the head/sump gaskets, rear and front mains...

Another thing to do is measure from bulkhead to front of back box at the door openings. if the posts are rotten there's no guarantee it hasn;t shifted already, so part of replacing them would defintely be checking that alignment - also checking for vertical shift/sag.

Drain a gallon or two from the tank into a billy and strain it through a chamois leather. Water should stay behind. Barring that decant into a glass jug and allow to rest - water will settle to the bottom and can be left behind and the fuel decanted off. Reminds me of a rig i built for...

By weasel I assume you mean Diesel... :) More the point, cap should be 9-10 pounds. The pressurization is definitely an issue - you need that to work. Cap is a good place to start, also check to make sure that it's seating properly on the filler neck - a bit of coloured gel or grease (clean it...

Also check/replace the gasket on the fuel sender. Could also be marginal fuel filler pipe between the side of the box and the top of the tank, or the vent hose. These do perish after a while and will do what you describe. Take the plate off the top of the tank and overfill it again - you'll see...

If that light is on I would be at the battery and alternator connections with cleaner, and a voltmeter to make sure it's actually charging. The light being on usuallly means it's not...and if you've been wading around in the muck odds are you've messed up the brushes/slip rings in your...

Re: Chassis: That's going to make a few things easier... :) Can i recommend that now that you've got it in bits you inspect it fairly carefully and make a general plan of what you think needs doing if you haven't already? I've done more than a few landys over the years (and one of them...