Thank you. Can you adjuster come right off to or does that locate somewhere that means I should leave. I was going to have a proper look earlier, but had to do the brakes on my Mazda. The joys of older cars.

Thanks. I know the linkages are good. It's the fluid seeping out of the top nut that seemed odd. Probably just needs tightening. I can't quite work out what would happen if I take the nut and bolt out so I can clean and then reset by adjusting to the stop and then back off. Is this possible? I...

Right. I tweaked the screw on top of the steering box, which seemed to make no real difference. Noticed some leaking atf from top of box a few days later. Seems to be coming from the top, so where I cracked the large nut to undo the small adjuster. As a matter of interest, is there an oil seal...

Two bolts out, undo old ball joint. Easy job, if a little awkward. Just soak in WD for a few days.

What a plonker. In the daylight things are so much easier! Belt as loose as a loose thing. A quick tighten and all seems well. Now to try and dial out some of the play. You can turn the wheel a good couple of inches either way and although the column moves, there is not corresponding movement...

200tdi. I will have a good look at the weekend when I have daylight.

I will check and see. Thanks for the thoughts. I will update when I have checked.

Yes and done. I can check again just to make sure, but seemed to do that even when I put a new belt on.

I have been pondering an issue I have with the steering on my 90. It tends to be on full lock, more often when reversing. There is a sort of squealing noise, like the belt, but don't think it is and a sort of judder as the steering goes through its movement. Sometimes pulling away, again...

I still can't fathom this. It must be straight forward. I don't really want to elongate the holes if it fit okay previously. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Funnily enough I have replaced my door seals today, and while at is tried to get the catch to hold with less of a gap. Since the 90 was off the road for about 3 months having work done, the offside front door doesn't close properly. Like others here, I fit a new striker, but the door catches but...

That's a poor service. Most things I will tackle myself, especially on something like a 90. It's all good practise and experience for the next time around. The more jobs you try the better. :)

No, even the drop arm can only be off by 90 or 180 degree which is not likely unless you turn the wheel but you're not doing the drop arm. Yes, it will need tracking but should be close ish. The steering wheel will probably need realigning.

Just done this on mine, in addition to fitting a new drop arm. I swapped the track rods for a whole new bar which included them. This was the most economical and then removed front drag link and loosened all threads on drop arm end and fit new joint on wheel end. All easy enough to do, if a bit...

Finally the drop arm off having left a puller on for a week I was away, replaced with a new one, reassembled the front panhard, drag link and replaced rear damper mount, put is all back together just in time for the Rugby. Bugger! Disappointing result!

Any 110 that is half decent seems to be £10K plus regardless of whether in the 90s or early 2000s. We looked but cant justify over my 90.

FYI 6 bolt drop arm nut is 35 mm. It came off no problem. The new one (now not needed) I ordered from Paddocks is also 35 mm so must be a thing with the 6 bolt.

I bought a 34 socket and it doesn't fit. My nut appears to be bigger. Not by much, but enough.

Will do thanks. I just need to get the right socket for the nut first.

That is a very kind offer. I may just take you up on that if I find myself about to take a sledge hammer to it like I was last week. You aren't far away.