thanks I will check that tomorrow, any suggestions on were I might fine any common known earth issues ?

Its a 1998 I am getting another alternator, then will have to get the ECU checked out if I can find someone near Liverpool that does it.

Does that give anyone any idea what it can be ??? and can I just swap an ECU over from another vehicle or does if have to have the matching ignition or anything ?

Yes, it does

I did ! they are voltage readings

ok I have good conductivity from neg term to engine block. the battery itself is 12.63 positive to engine block is also 12.63 Neg term to Engine Bloke measuring voltage is 0.0 with ignition on 0.008 lights on 0.009 lights and blower 0.011 So all zero or zero .

thanks B34R will try that now, set it to omz yeah ?

I have just tried 2 computers on it and cannot connect to vehicle, on both

how can I tell if it's an ECU fault, or can I buy a second hand ECU and just swap it over or does it have to be married up to the ignition and imobiliser ?

any ideas where they would be, I'm stressed out with this damn thing now, anyone want it for £500 quick sale lol

I disconnected the alternator and tried it again, still the same problem, works fine till you put something electrical on, then turns to crap. any ideas AT ALL ??? (apart from get the alt repaired)

Ok I have just been out and invested in a brand new battery, the car starts fine, revs up fine, alternator is sending 17.6 to the battery, but when I put the lights on and the fan, the engine splutters coughs and farts again. so waste of money on a battery and now I have no clue what it is...

do these engine have an earth strap like most cars to the bodywork ?

It's strange, I charged the battery overnight so it's had a good charge, started it up and put the lights on, this time is was all fine, then I put the heater blower on too and it turned to crap again, so I switched them both off and started it up again this time put the heater on first and it...

I have a freelander, it had been standing a while when I got it off a friend, so did an oil change, flushed the old petrol and so on all the usual when you get a second hand motor. I have had it in the yard for a couple of months now, and every few days I start it up and let it run for a while...

Updated profile, cleaned all connections, fixed the radio, ordered glass for the rear 1/4, ordered switches for windows, closed the sunroof carpets are dry... Only problem I have now is trying to select "low" range, get the yellow flashing lights telling me it's trying to change to low, but...

Just got to workshop, first thing I headed for was fuse 11 under the drivers seat. it DID have a 10a fuse in it, Funny though as I could still select gears even with it in. Anyway I pulled it out now and the only thing different is that if I shift to neutral on the left side, the orange selector...

Great thanks, I will have a play with it tomorrow, just ordered a switch pack to be on the safe side or keep as a spare anyway.

Is there any way of shutting the transfer box sensor off, as the gearbox works fine and drives perfect. So are we all sure it's the switch console thing then ? and not Battery voltage ? and how do I know it's not the BeCM thing itself ?

I guess this is one of them topics, everyone has a different idea then, as it could be any one of a 1000 causes ?