From what I can find Part No : ALR9782 is the same on all Freelanders 96 onwards so it "should" be the same for your TD4. L.R. Series has them listed Here if you drop them an email with your Freebies details they'll check if its the right one for you to be sure. Methos.

Yes and No, If the tipex marks move its either working properly or running free and no drive is being transfered to the rear, If it they don't move can be the worrying one, it could be seized which means it will kill both your rear diff and the more expensive IRD. The Ashcroft Transmissions...

If its the Latch Assembly (Prt no : ALR9782 - Note you didn't say which model year etc) about 50 to 60 quid. Methos

I'm curious Shutty, how did the Frontera behind ya do on the same slope ? From the pics looks like it has a bit more ground clearance than the freebie ? Methos.

Yes its got to be moved/removed or you could just change the 3 other plugs and see, many on here do that to save all the extra work of removing injection timing belt etc. Use plenty of wd40 on them (preferably day before removal attempt) so they don't shear when seized in place. Methos.

Me dozzle has got the damper (partially fooked) so maybe the silly git before me put a 1.8 petrol (vcu) one on he had lying in the shed ? :eek: and sold another to zx12arrgh ;) Methos.

The diesels have em too...or are ya being a fuel racist :D Methos.

Its not a TD4....

That was funny :p A tad cheaper than flebay : Linky or ya could use a couple of these : Linky no hippo owner should be without em :rolleyes: Methos.

Front of the engine right hand side, (in front of injector 1) driven by a belt from the cam...the one at the tank is just a sender/gauge unit. Follow the pipe from the fuel filter ;) Methos.

It would be dead easy to make a LZ diagnostic tool, just a palm pilot that says "use the fooking search" no matter which button you push...there perfect..Patten Pending....

Did you disconnec the battery for a min and then reconnect* and let the window recalibrate itself ? * The window will go all the way down, and reset/recal, then you'll have to raise it (hopefully) using the switch as normal. Methos.

Have you got the pipes the wrong way around when fitting the new one ? Methos.

Spot the professionally trained support crew.. "I got me a branch, I got me a branch" I would have smelt line most defenders after that too...no wonder sheep are the only thing you guys can get near on a Friday night... Impressive thought I'll admit fooking mad but impressive.... Methos.

You mean when of course ? ;)

Anything from that of a Mayfly to life of the car...depending on your luck..newer models post 2001 were "slightly" better. They all "tighten up" on full lock, unless you were just reversing in a straight line ? Methos.

Starter motor, the contacts on the solenoid burn/corrode and it doesn't engage properly...it just click, click, clicks... sound familar ? After you've checked the Battery as MHM said of course...start (no pun) with the easy stuff first, Methos

You can pick the fobs up on ebay (cheapest) but you'll need to take it to a LR stealership to get it programmed...I was quote £40 from our local.. Methos.

Also referred to as "Rubbing Strips" in case "Side Molding Kit" doesn't come up with any results using Ebay/Google etc. Methos.

Because some folks have wanted there whole life to drive an Ice Cream Van, a disco fulfills that dream :) Re the OP : You'll not find any car or car forum that isn't full of folks warning don't buy this and that etc...as most come on the forums like this when its broke..yer not gonna find a...