The front ones do tend to have a lot of slop on them... the clunk could also be the Aframe ball joint (bugger of a job to do, I've been putting mine off for a while now) ther way of checking is to raise on wheel and spin back and forth to see if you can re-create the sound ;)

just so you know, the reverse light is a non testable item ;) cheers Dave

wassat on the left hand sid eof your gauges?? is it a light??

I once took my landy to them and they said they couldn't do the tracking because it's too big.... so I thought ****em...came back with the mini and they said it was too small:mad::mad: DICK!

sorry guys, been messing all day... right, the 90 should be using RTC3346. the 110 should have RTC4587. the way to tell the diffrence is to measure on accorss from cup to cup. the 90's are bigger at 81.7mm while the 110 ones are only 74.5. One bloke I was talking to had a 90 front prop on...

yeah the circlips come wioth the new ones, but they can snap, leaving half the cip in the groove. I'll check te parts numbers ofr you. dod you have a 110 or a 90, what's the year?

I've just doen all the UJ's on mine and it's not that nasty in terms of landy jobs. Make sure you get Hardy spicer UJ's not the all makes type (these are made of toffee) The hardest part is getting the old circlips out wothout braking them. and remeber 110 uj's arnt the same as 90's ;)

err...true but it also depends which end goes. the handbrake end of the rear prop can give the same upside downey sensation:D

she's alright, bit quiet to be honest:p

yeah true, but have you ever seen one that overheats and the seals blow? I have and it's messy:p

oh yeah:) !! if you'rs have removable flanges on the rear, the chances are they're old rangie ones

LOL:D :D hit a nerve?? let's all be mates :D

:D:D you see that's where I'll fall down :D I'll be like a curley wurley by the time I'm done :D and i'll be drinking brake fluid

N/A motors should be fairly straight forward.. having said that....I dont know my arse from my elbow when it comes to them :D should be easier to find than a 200tdi though

£16 quid a roll aint bad.. The genuine part's about £50 :eek: sod that!..I can make a still while I'm at it ;)

a good N/A should be bullit proof but then i've had no problems with 200tdi's either.... both on mine or my dads. If you're thinking hot places then the N/A would probably fair better. Turbo's dont like heat and dust

Stealership :eek::eek::eek::eek: no chance!! Rob, where'd you get your pipe from mate?? How much did you end up paying? I Might have to go for new fittings, they're the originals and I seem to remember getting the rear axle's lines off was a bit of a job:( Suppose I'll see when I come to take...

I've got a 110 CSW and the brake pipe that runs down the chassis is looking a bit dodge so I was thinking or changing it. does anyone know what the part number is and where to get the pipe? I'd prefer to get a pipe with all the bends in it coz I know how crap it would be if i tried to do it.:o...

ooh! seen you before...now where would that have been :D

LOL :D that's brilliant!:D:D:D