so if you drove it with no hoses attached and it was the same i suspect the turbo may not be spinning up, with the hoses off see if you can spin the turbo with your finger (engine off)

fuel filter changed? sedimenter cleaned/removed? Air in fuel line?

had mine in for 3 years or so, still fine

I have run 95/5 wvo/unleaded in warm weather ok. best thing is to mix up 2 lots of 20l and when the tank is really low put one in and see how it goes if that one was ok when it gets low a gain put the other one in, there will be less derv in the tank the second time, if its still ok i would say...

5% unleaded 95% veg, unleaded thins a lot better then derv.

i just copy the flare on the pipe i have taken off.

i just used one of these Laser Tools | 3434 | Flaring Tool - In Situ did a good job, the silverline one was crap.

the reason there is confusion is this faq from ashcrofts. Ashcroft Transmissions "I have a 4 speed ZF Auto and it sticks in first gear in the morning or when cold and is reluctant to change up from 1st gear. Once the gearbox has warmed up it shifts normally. Why? The governor valve is...

bloody hell this topic has taken off. I'm not sure what the OP wanted me to do, type out the whole list for him in the reply so he could just copy and past it for printing. its not even as if the info was hard to find on google like some stuff is when you can't remember or don't know what its...

here you go. link

air in the fuel line, put some clear pipe between the filter and the injection pump and check for bubbles.

what you really need to do is look at the wiring layout in a haynes and check you have got the right pins on the ecu. you could also check you have a liner resistor and not a logarithmic one and that it is working by checking with an ohm meter.

0 ohms it will be rough 1000 Ohms you will not notice any difference some where in between will be the sweet spot.

to test the sensor attach a multimeter to the top connection and the body set it to OHM's it should read infinity then warm up the end of the sensor and the resistance should drop to almost 0 OHM's. Don't know what temp it should change at but i would of thought less then 100 C so boiling water...

there is a temp sensor in the oil cooler pipe, it might be worth taking it out and checking it works, also check the over temp light is working.

the taxation page is out of date but all the other info is good and i think a must read if you want to run veg or bio its a good basis to further research/testing. Things are always moving on so if you are interested in keeping up to date you would be best to join the veg forum listed in my sig.

FFS where do these people learn to be mechanics, normal **** when ever you mention bio or veg. i suppose my glow plug relay packing in is the fault of me running on bio/veg. glad you have found an honest one.

you may find this site interesting Oil Types and Filtering

i have heated and settled for 24 hours a 100l batch of wvo, drained off the water and any cloudy oil, i have then pumped it to the processor, I then heated to 100Deg C for 2 hours while pumping and bubbling and condensed off another 1.5L of water. simple heating and settling will not remove all...

your water removal filter will only remove free water, it won't remove any water that has been absorbed by the wvo, the only way to get that out is to heat it.