yeah, I've self fitted them to my two previous golfs, Audi coupe and two corrados. never had a single fault. Wouldn't consider anything else!

A quick google search suggests boosts are ET33. To move the wheels out buy 30mm you'd be looking for wheels with an ET3. Could be wrong.... But its not too difficult to google.

Yup, etch primed mine with upol then Truck bed painted.... All from halfords. In all honesty, the bed paint is good, grippy and does what it says, but Due to its rubbery nature can be scratched off with a fingernail if you try. Seems to last better against footfall. Can do pics if necessary...

Best one I've seen is by a French company called ACC16 Can get very expensive though if you buy all the options! http://www.acc16.com/localtechnique4/console-defender.pdf

Whoa there.... and clicking on Oddie's link gives him another entry.... thus reducing your own chances!!! Alternatively follow this link to enter without decreacing your own odds! Sorry Oddie.... but you got mine first! FatFace loveWINter

Door seals, cheap or expensive? - Defender Forum - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum Fair discussion on this subject only recently...

Yup. Used em a couple of times. Get what you pay for.

These are compomotive alloys - VS to be precise and designed to fit even the earliest coil sprung 'defenders'. Shown without the centre caps. They'll soon be surplus to me.. if interested I'm on the south coast nr Brighton.

Nice job so far. I trust there are baffles inside to stop the sub / 6x9s sharing the airspace...

I never liked kurust.... Used it on my golf deades ago and the rust came straight back after 4 months. Jenolite was my product of choice for a long time but having recently rear the reviews in magazines I tried Bilt Hamber products and found they wiped the floor with anything I'd tried...

It'll be fine. Let us know if it blows up.

Actually I bought mine from island 4x4 and the prices seemed quite fair. Mine was all for 5mm glass tho.

Bought mine from paddock. Some arrived in genuine packaging, some arrived in blue wrap. Finished fitting it all today and seems ok. Don't like the new style outer waist seals, but fingers crossed they might keep some water out. Which bits do you need? To do the compete set there are a lot of...

I've no doubt you'll be able to make it work! Just nice to see how others go about the same challenges. Let us know how you get on with it all. Cheers!

I haven't checked this thread for a couple of months.... Great progress! I sure you've got it under control, but how are you checking alignment of all the key bits? When I fitted my replacement (fr) outriggers I kept most of the body In place then refitted bulkhead and doors temporarily to...

Specs say they'll do 16 gauge 'metal'. I've put 3mm ally chequer plate through mine for an aeriel on the wing without problem. Just keep it lubed!

Hole punch. Drill an 8mm hole. Assemble punch over sheet. Tighten using Allen key. Voila perfect 20mm hole. Think my punch was only 5 or 10 quid and a much better hole form than a drilled hole. Good on both steel and allys so long as the plate ain't too thick.

Agreed. They're about £100 off eBay new and fitting instructions are easily found. Security level depends mostly on the quality / ingenuity of installation and how well burried it is. The three I've fitted have been 100% reliable and importantly have decent fobs which are fairly batter proof.

I've only seen these once before in an SD1. So not sure if it was aftermarket or optional extra.

I've a pair of those in the loft.... Just waiting around for me to retrim..... But wheres the time?! What'd they be worth to you? At least one base bolster is mis shaped but a retrim will replace those. As far as I know complete and with both net headrests and standard... One seat stripped...