Replaced mine today, my fuel pump was whining loudly over a few days and I thought the pump was on its way out. Recently had head gasket and turbo replaced and it wasn't performing as it should, so gave it a shot of cataclean which improved it somewhat. The cataclean must have cleaned loads of...

I had exactly that in my old D2. (In fact I thought you had nicked the photo I posted on here a while ago) My head lining was getting soaked above the windscreen. Sealed it up and the soaking stopped...

Yep - second from top on the far right-

Dash light is likely to be the water sensor in the fuel filter. A common issue is that they become over sensitive and flicker on occasionally. Mine does it all the time even just after I've changed the fuel filter. The fuel flap is probably the small metal 'bracket' that the pin engages. Just...

Has the transmission oil ever been changed? Has it been on diagnostics?

Hmm. I've read that polys are fine on watts linkage but britpart definitely not! I'll do a bit more research. My MOT is next month though I've read a few cases of MOT passes with worn watts bushes and not seen anyone mention failing due to them. Though I would think it should fail.

Mine is definitely the watts bushes, only appears to be the top bush on the centre part, there didn't seem to be any movement in the others when rocked. Where did you get yours? Saw some poly bush ones on eBay for £99, are polys any good?

Yup... didn't you do yours a while back?

Found my 'clunk' today - watts linkage bush. bugger...

I'd be really interested to know how different it feels between unplugged and a fully working genuine MAF though.

Just not £160 worth of 'better'... o_O

So, in your opinion, what was the difference? A good test would be to drive a certain route with it unplugged, then drive exactly the same route plugged in and see how it feels. Edit- I suppose it won't show you the difference between VDO and genuine but it will show the difference between no...

7 minutes of suspense now....

Well if you read the original post, he said he has done an "extensive search" and either the previous queries were met with "do a search"... or the links to photo guides are all dead. Personally, I've never stripped or repaired a leaky sunroof as I've never used them. I like the light they allow...

Why would he? If he knew he wouldn't be asking. You could always help him by explaining it... :rolleyes:

Then it's most likely a loose wire like I said above. Very simple 5 minute fix. Also an MOT fail if you don't and it appears at the most inopportune moment- like just before the MOT... ;)

You say 5 things for the SRS light, rule one out without a nanocom- under the drivers seat is an electrical connector. Check the wiring to it. One of the wires had come out on mine, popped it back in, light went out :)

Water possibly getting into the xyz switch. I've read a few threads where the aircon drain, which is directly over the switch, causes this issue. It's fair to say that if water can drop down into it, it can splash up as well. Could be water getting into the connector plug, clean and waterproof...

11,783 results to be exact....

As others have said, do a visual check first, to make sure nothing is obviously out of place. If not, then go down the nanocom/Hawkeye route. You will need one to reset the lights/clear fault. The hubs are ridiculously expensive if you go genuine, aftermarket are much cheaper but quality can be...