Right….problem solved! I swapped out the coil first of all - still wouldn't start. I then went to change the ignition amp, but noticed that one of the two thin white wires that lead into the connector on the top of the amplifier had snapped. I used the new connector off of the new...

Thanks Saint. Is this the part I need? Ignition Amplifier Module - STC1184 | Defender, Discovery Series 1, Range Rover Classic | Land Rover, Range Rover | British Parts UK

Hi folks, Car is a '93 LSE 4.2 V8. Drove the car home from work on Saturday with no problems, parked it on the drive, locked it using the fob, and left it overnight. Went out today, unlocked it using the fob, went to start it as usual, and it refuses to fire. It will turn over fine...

It may not have been intended....but it was received! No worries if Sorrel leather isn't your thing, but it does look good on mine. Cheers, Brian.

I see the intelegencia has spoken...:cool: The below picture shows my '93 LSE with Sorrel brown Leather... On a white car I, and many others, think it looks **** hot... Cheers.

See how the economy goes up once you've removed the only good thing about the car, the 4-wheel-drive system, then, if it's still not cheap enough to run, why not remove the ****ing engine too?

You must have done a lotof research to come up with that crap... The reality is that you can produce up to 2,500 litres per year for personal use without paying duty. A simple form keeps you legal and above board. Details can be found here: HM Revenue & Customs As for not being...

I'll have a look at the cooler next time I'm at my unit to confirm fitment. I used a very large adjustable spanner to get mine off, but it took some doing. Persevere and it will come off.

Pop the front grille off, unbolt the small fans either side of the trans cooler, then soak the nuts either side of the cooler in WD40. Simple case of removing the nuts either side of the cooler after this, and it should just pull off. Incidentally...I have a cooler for sale in good condition.

I have a couple of bits for sale that might be of use to someone... I have a transmission cooler (bog brush type) in excellent condition, £50 posted via TNT. Also, a working and tested ABS with Traction Control ECU, part number NTC8474, £45 posted via TNT. Finally, a brake pump pressure...

After getting my '93 hard dash LSE back on the road after 6 weeks chasing a brake issue that saw me off the road...I've done around 50 happy miles, only to find a large pool of petrol under the car when I returned after leaving it running for a few minutes. It appears the return pipe has...

I did a few more tests, and after changing the pressure switch on the pump with no success, decided to change the whole pump. Problem solved - all working again!

As above really, mine are disintegrating at a rapid rate.

Bit of an update.... The ECU was giving a fault code that it wasn't receiving power, despite the live feed in to the ecu being ok. I have replaced the ECU with another good one, but the problem remains. Where do I go from here?

Nothing at all.

During a run, my abs and traction control lights came on, and I lost servo assistance. The pedal is firm, and there is fluid in the system, and the car still stops slowly, albeit with no servo assistance. I have been through all 48 pages of checks in the electronic troubleshooting manual...

Ok.... Sold my 1993 lse on monday...only to get a call a couple of hours later saying the brakes had failed. I drove the buyers home and took the car back. So... Everything was good with the brakes before, but now I have the brake warning, abs and traction control lights on the dash...

Gearbox oil smells like burning rubber. Just a thought...

I've been changing my heater matrix this weekend, and when I removed the heater control panel found that the right hand switch, which controls the fan speed, had welded itself to the connector and burnt out. My fan only worked on settings 1, or 3, so I now know why. The problem I now have...

Quick update for those who may be interested or experiencing similar issues... It turned out that the speed buffer was faulty, as that's where the speed signal was ending. It has been temporarily bypassed now to get the speedo working, and a new buffer has been ordered. Fingers crossed this...