Have you used Vredstein? I'm seriously considering them for my Audi in a couple of weeks.

I run Cooper Discoverer M+S Sport in the winter - they're reasonably priced and perform well on wet and dry roads, with excellent grip in the snow (we had between 6 and 8 inches a couple of times last year).

It varies depending on the supplier / pattern. I've had fuel filters both with and without the centre o-ring from Island and my local motor factors. All of them have worked just fine though. The centre o ring (when there is one) is outside the thread, so I could never really see much point in...

Agree with everything Wammers said, try that first. A leaking fuel injector (particularly no. 4) can also cause air to get back in to the fuel line, although I could literally hear it sucking back in the minute I turned a hot engine off when mine went.

To be honest, I think the biggest problem with the switch pack is the location directly in front of the cup-holders. I suspect most replacements from a breaker will have the same accumulation of sticky gunk in them as a result of 10+ years of beverage spillage. That said, if they're cheap...

Taking the switch pack out and giving the circuit board a good dose of contact cleaner did the trick for me.

Have you checked if you have air in the clear pipe between the fuel filter and the injector pump? Could be you have a leaking fuel injector which is letting air in to the system, or the in-tank fuel pump isn't working properly. Does it start any better on a full tank of fuel? (I know you said...

Biological washing powder does the trick on paving - not sure about tarmac. (also not sure if jack oil will react the same as engine oil)

My last daily driver was an Audi A4, which I had for 10 years and never let me down over 250,000 miles. When it came to replacement time, I logically bought another Audi A4 which has now clocked up about 120,000 miles over the past 4 years and never seen a mechanic except on scheduled...

Out of interest, how many people know someone who has actually had their wheels stolen in this day and age when almost every car I see has alloys as standard? I've always taken any locking wheel nuts off my cars and replaced with standard wheel nuts. The ability to remove my wheel with...

As with any big chain, the service you receive is only as good as the team at your local branch, so I can only talk for the one in Stoke on Trent. I've taken my P38 in there a couple of times - to have the tracking done after I'd changed the track rod and drag link (Wheel alignment - £25 fixed...

Beat me to it!

I used a chain wrench to get my old one off, and there wasn't a mark on it afterwards. I did use a strap wrench to tighten the new one on though. If you do need to bleed the brakes, my local Halfords autocentre did a brake fluid change for £30 fairly recently, which I thought was great value...

When I took my light guards off, I filled the holes and touched up the paint with a couple of cans from Halfords. The results were pretty decent, but as others have said, I over-sprayed pretty much the full panels to blend in properly. It's all about the preparation and primer. If you mess up...

They screw in to a threaded hole on the bumper brackets, although this is actually a nut welded to the inside of the bracket if I recall correctly. Mine were a bugger to get off, but a bit of "encouragement" knocking an E16 socket on to the rusted bolts did the trick for me. Sounds like you're...

I've always found these chaps to be frightfully good: Hutchinsons Staff

Yes, would definitely recommend changing all 4 together. I'd go further and suggest that for an extra £100 or so, it's probably worth changing all 4 shocks at the same time, but I can't back that up with any technical reasoning other than it seems like it makes sense to me to do them together...

I reckon something like this ought to do the job: PAC SWI-PS Steering wheel control interface for Dual, Jensen, Pioneer, and Sony at Crutchfield.com Given the fact it is translating a resistance ladder to a pulse signal, I wonder if it might be possible to program some of the additional...

I can't fault the Dunlop bags personally - I'd done 120,000 miles on the original set, so didn't see any reason to change from OEM when I replaced them. If I have to change them again in another 100,000 miles or so, I'll be perfectly happy to do so! :) As expected with OEM, I didn't notice any...

I'd been thinking of doing this on mine when I'm doing the autumn service this year, although the my flaring between 1st and 2nd is much improved since putting some Lucas snake oil in with the new fluid last month (it still has a slight judder, but vastly improved, and I've only done a few...