I'm currently running " Sans stat" but have read a few threads you mentioned earlier. I'm waiting for my BMW e65 4.0d stat to arrive - allegedly identical but 88deg and no electrical heater Will report when fitted.

About a month before my holiday mid Aug, I replaced the thermostat and water pump on my 2002 4.4. Better safe than sorry I thought as I had a "Activation Map Cooling" error showing which means the electric element had blown in the stat and I wasn't sure on the history of the pump so whilst in...

I know some of the boys have fitted units for the BMW X5 (E53) or 3 series (E46) on the earlier RR, but I think the audio system was upgraded to a fibre optic system around 2005 which I don't think is compatible with the BMW units

My first thoughts where the vaporiser as previous suggestions but that said the LPG tank should be isolated with the ignition off so it maybe a good idea to check if your getting seepage from the shutoff Valve on the tank.

So much for "don't post adverts"

5W40 fully synthetic in mine. 150k on the clock and if left a good while will give a momentary rattle, but otherwise runs like clockwork. I would expect to hear a constant rattle at tickover if the VANOS is playing up. As Saint says the chain tensioners can be a little soft and changing these...

It was made more remarkable by the fact that without the joined on bit, it still had enough slack to fit. 2 x solder ring connectors probably cost more than the hose.

Its not really a bad job, the worst part I thought was the strain on the backs of me legs leaning in there. I too had the one bad fixing bolt - I seem to remember bashing in the next size up torx bit or similar to get that screw out. Oh and there was this little darling...

Maybe worth noting that running back from devon with no stat, she ran about 80 deg fluctuating about 5 deg depending on load.

I had this on my holidays too a few weeks back Saint. Diagnosed weak viscous as it wasn't kicking in at all despite way overheat (115deg). Any how after loosing the car for a couple of days whilst the garage sourced and fitted a new viscous, it was back with me and overheating again within 5...

Could try bypassing the heater valves to prove or disprove them ?

Saints advice as always is sound, but also check the weep holes for the valley pan. Theres a couple of videos on the tube detailing this issue

Valley pan gasket maybee. It maybee small enough to evaporate before finding its way out of the weep hole at the back of the engine. Not an easy one to check without a strip down. Also make sure you have the heater controls set to fully hot before bleeding.

Sound advice forgetting the LPG for the minute. Pull the fuse to de-activate and toot round on petrol for a while. The Motronic ECU will soon trim itself. Your MAF reading looks OK, at idle, try the following speeds and see if you get about the same - make sure all engine loads are off...

So did I, but no reply - sad smiley.

Has the steering box been centralised ? P38s are particular about tyres. Radius arm bushes ?

I would say the lpg vaporiser pressure is a little down you pushed it a bit hard on the motorway and the trim couldn't adjust the injection timing to adjust for the low gas pressure hence the out of range fault. Phantom coolant level warnings are a common Occurance. I'm surprised you haven't...

Good work fella, your prize - smugness

Pop quiz hotshots - CSK stands for ?????

Best idea is to whip the belt off and have a touchy feel. Its quite simple to release the tension. Any sign of roughness from the idler / alternator / water pump etc should be adressed sooner rather than later.