:eek:! Thanks for all the replies folks...even if they wernt what i wanted to hear!!. Im running the 2.25 petrol unit, And when the diff/axle goes kah-put, ill fettle up a salisbury, like in the "rear axle" thread. Thanks again!.

I wouldnt say i was going mad...certainly eased off quite a bit with the Go pedal on some sections. Really what im asking is; Is it really THAT easy to bust diffs and snap axles?

I have been hearing alot of "old wives tales" about the rear diff "exploding":confused: and snapping back axles....It has got me thinking all the time im off-roading that my diff will break up. Many of you on this site use your Landys for off-roading, Whats you views please?:D Thanks, Jackual.

When ya go into 'birds eye' view it shows a number of containers and pikey wagons littered around.

:rolleyes: ok i wont.

Ah ok!, Good stuff!. what sort of gearbox are you running?, is it coupled to the original motor?. Cheers.

Ive been told a left hand drive early chevvy blazer power steering box works for a right hand drive landy, bolts straight on to the bracket, no need to hack out lumps of chassis bodywork ect.. so ive been told....ive yet to look in to this myself.

TheSmiths88, Just curious, but in your photo i cant see a sliding joint on the prop shaft, where is the sliding joint?.

The bean can is just the resevoir for both clutch and brakes, if you look inside it has a center 'cup' sort of thing, thats for the clutch, then an outer reserve for the brakes...they should both have plenty of fluid in. Maybe another thing is check that the hole in the top of the bean cans...

Have you got free wheeling hubs???....might be the bearing in that, ive had one go and it mad the same screaming noise, and the roof makes it louder too! If you dont have freewheeling hubs then disregard this.

Got some cooper discoverers on my....dare i say it; Suzuki vitara :o was told id get really high miles out of em, been fitted for 2 years and still, the tread looks like new. Bloody good tyres i say!.

Agreeing with steve2286w...Yark that sump out...

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Are you sure its hitting the crankshaft and not the baffle in the oil pan?, try moving the dipstick tube around, till the dipstick will slide in to the sump.

Also, fat wheels will reduce your steering lock - not that a series has much of a steering lock to begin with.

Yeah, just be aware of acellerated wear in the top railko bush, it uses spash lubrication of oil in the swivel housing, Otherwise you could put a grease nipple on the top pin to keep things lubricated, I think there is a kit for this??

There much of a muchness. If id have seen that loom on ebay, it would have been snapped up!:) But i spent three weeks over there and needed a loom to jet off with, Autosparks was the only option.

The looms from Auto sparks are the real deal, ive not had any problems with it over here in kiwiland, also another good tip - when yer connecting the spade/bullet connectors, put a dab of sillicone grease on/inbetween the connection, stops water destroying connections, the sillicone grease seems...

Might be a long shot, but its an idea!, Have you tried the air filter?

Switches can be quite a pain when they get worn, causing intermitent spark ect ect, do ya have another?, i have one in the garage here:p, Pm me if ya in need of one!. Yours has a holden repower, and has an electric fuel pump, series 2&3's had mechanical pumps at the side of the block, running...