me too. and if you've bought gaitors from a certain british part supplier in a blue packet, make sure they're under absolutely no kind of stretch at all when fitted in the normal ride position or next time you look under the landy they'll be split. mine were ....

cheers fella. hope my aftermarket ones are drilled & tapped deep enough to do that too.

I don't mean the axle perch mount things - I mean the plate that goes underneath the spring that has the 4 U-bolt ends poking through it. You need ones off the back of a SWB for the front axle of your new set-up, it pulls the bottom shock mount in close to the axle to stop it fouling the aft...

curiosity ... what did you do to get a front drag link the right length?

welcome! we like that. I'm also in pembs.

if you see stuff for sale that you can't collect, try Shiply (Courier Services - UK Delivery Service Companies) . we won a massive water tank off ebay about 300 miles away, got it delivered for the price of the fuel, all I did was sit here and wait. thoroughly recommended.

that is one fun toy. peppers, forgot to mention you'll need to use spring seat/shock mounts off the rear of a SWB which pull the bottom shock mount a lot closer to the axle ... otherwise the shock wants to be where the trailing track rod is.

I do but it's a bit rusty and still attached to a smart green 2a, tax exempt, overdrive, petrol with LPG conversion, Pembrokeshire. Been off the road since 03, needs rear x-member, brakes, exhaust.

not misread. it now lines up with the new gearbox - which came out of a mitsubishi - the prop is on the left of the vehicle. and i had to re-invert the diff to make it drive the right way again ... easier said than done as the bolting pattern is asymmetric. seemed like a really good idea when...

Those track rods weren't expensive to buy, think it was a paddocks HD offroady type kit. Will measure for you, but 'fraid you'll have to give me a bit of time, we just had our first daughter born earlier this week .. and the landy is currently buried at the back of the shed as we're also in the...

...PS, if using Series axle mounts, the axle mount that goes nearest the diff (offside on yours) needs major mods as the RR/Disco diff is closer to the leaf spring than on the Series axle. You also need to have an odd-shaped U-bolt made up for the mount nearest the diff, you'll see why when you...

Have done it although it's not on the road yet. - 1-ton shackles to drop the rear of the springs - Re-drilled flanges to sort out the castor/diffnose angle - 30mm solid steel spacers underneath Series axle mounts to lift axle enough for rear track rod to clear springs - Range Rover HD...

Ratio is something like +25% ish, maybe even slightly little more.

In an ideal world you'd have Land Rover special tool 600900(?) or whatever it is to undo the castle nut on the back of the mainshaft. If however the gearbox is a scrapper you can undo the small steel plate on the top of the gearbox (4 bolts) and batter the nut undone with a hammer/drift...

Do you reckon they were binding, as in jamming on? Was it difficult to get the drum off?

What was the quality of repair work like? Could you see where it had been fixed?

price list doesn't mention VAT or delivery either.

I found 2 litres of synthetic enamel enough to do one coat on the outside. Brush painted, quality brush, good prep, careful vertical strokes, came out a treat. Thoroughly recommend Tractol for price and finish. Use Xylene/Linseed Oil to clean/store brushes. Can be bought via Smith & Allan who...

I don't remember everything from chemistry classes ... it were a few decades ago(!), but the way I recall it you get galvanic reactions between dissimilar metals, for instance like the ally skin on the steel doorpanel corrodes and goes white due to electrical contact with the steel...

that matt/satin black looks great. always done them gloss before - I think I'm a convert.