The kit I managed to pick up, (albeit not as good a price as £40), came with two switch types. A grey one for use around the instrument cluster, and a black one, that fits into a supplied blanking plate, that goes into the cubby hole to the right of the steering wheel. So I have a choice, sort...

Yes, and you have to make sure you get the right colour one. One type is a dark grey, and the later ones pre-facelift are black.

Regarding the horn slip ring. Mine failed also. I put a multimeter on the other unused tracks in the ring (used for cruise control etc. But not implemented in my vehicle), and they were ok. So I just swapped the horn button wire to one of those instead. Which works fine. As far as I know...

The Heinz Manwell and downloading a copy of RAVE are good reference points, then look through the threads on here to see how others have tackled things. There is something rewarding about doing these things yourself and learning along the way. Even when you are stuck underneath the vehicle...

Not sure on the TD4. But years ago I did this to a Golf TDI. It was only when the car stuttered to a halt I realised what I’d done. Towed the car back home and siphoned all the fuel from the tank. Gaining access from the rear seats. (Same on a Freelander 1), then filled with a few jerry cans...

While it’s off the vehicle, I’d probably give it a quick degunking, as it will only get worse. Some on here clean the EGR and inlet manifold yearly. I wonder too if the process of it getting severely gunked up over time is something that accelerates when a nice gunky surface has formed...

Good to hear you got it sorted, and always nice to see a thread with a conclusion that answers the question.

Excellent work, and great photos. What will you do now with all those additional switches?... looking forward to seeing..

Big rubber hose at the bottom of the radiator. Unclip that, and the coolant for the whole system will drain out. Quite a straightforward job. If you have the undertray still on your vehicle, you’ll have to take that off to get access. Again not a big job. If you don’t know the history of the...

I see this ad quite often on the bay of flees... https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/FREELANDER-MK1-HEATED-FRONT-WINDSCREEN-FULLY-FITTED/172098993785?fits=Model%3AFreelander&epid=15005863930&hash=item2811e63e79:g:11AAAOxyI8lR9qzy Whether it’s any good or not who knows. I’ve thought about upgrading at...

When I looked to see the cost of a replacement LR cover it was about £100. :(

I use the spare cruise control lines in the coupler, that are still working on mine. It seems that only certain lines in the coupler break, so if your vehicle doesn’t have CC you could borrow one of those lines as they are doing nothing. I think from memory there are 6 lines in the coupler in...

Seats will be different,( i.e. don’t fold forwards etc.) as will the doorcards. But most other bits will be be the same.

I find Tinkercad (which is a free online 3d design tool to be really easy and straightforward to use). As far as the object coming out the printer goes, you can tell it has been 3D printed, with the layers showing slightly, but you can always improve the finish by sanding down and spraying. For...

you mean being on the programme? Or being welded to a disco :-)

Has anyone else spotted the pink 3 door hippo stuck onto a disco and armed with a load of weaponry, that is doing the rounds on the promo material for the new show on Sky with Flintoff et-al? - a bit like a real life robot wars ...

Over the past 10 days or so drove 1200 miles around the UK, starting off when all the snow was doing it’s best. The 15 year old hippo never missed a beat, and provided a confident drive throughout. Back this weekend to wash all the salt off, and prep for today’s MOT. One minor fault that did...

My 2007 model did that. No leak. Just a dodgy fuel sender gauge. It would return to normal again after a while. Seem to recall you can’t get to the sender from under the rear seats, and required a rather expensive visit to LR to take the prop off and drop the fuel tank.

I replaced my cracking tank about a year ago with a LR part, which required the ‘new cap design’. Looking at it now no cracks. But there is always a trace of coolant around the cap. No matter how many times I clean it and tighten past the ratchet point. Need to dig out the receipt and see how...

+1 on the picture looking good.