Check your live MAF readings with HawkEye: Discovery 2 --> EMS --> Td5 --> Live Data --> Air Flow Should be between 55-65 Kg/hr at idle and 550-620 Kg/hr at full boost A partially busted MAF will read 30-40 Kg/hr at idle and max out half way through when at full boost. A totally busted...

Well a new battle has been won in the war against annoying noises in the Disco 2... Every time I use the heater for more than 15-20 minutes the blower motor (underneath the glove box) would start making a high pitch chirping sound, intermittent at first but irritatingly continuous in the end...

Yes it is normal. On early type Td5s (EU2 engine, MSB type ECU) there is no way out of this as neither Nanocom or HawkEye can disable the EGR "switch" within the ECU (need T4/Rovacom/etc.). The stuck closed or stuck open fault codes will be there everytime, just ignore them. For the later...

Protei, Back to your original question... oil is generally a very low conductivity medium but that doesn't forbid it from conducting electricity. As oil ages it becomes more acidic which increases its conductivity (despite having additives to counteract the build up of acid). On the electrical...

1- Have the system pressure tested and also note pressure at which pressure cap discharges fluid/air -- should be around 1.4 bar, if lesser replace pressure cap. 2- See the overflow pipe painted red in the picture. Place (and secure) a small plastic bottle to collect any potential overflow...

In all probability... fuel pressure regulator! :D

A/C compressor clutch bearing, hard to get a hold of and a PIA to replace, yet doable.

Sent to personal email address in contact info as file (pdf) exceeded maximum size allowed for thread post attachment.

Here's a follow up on this post. Whilst experienced no more misfiring issues, soon enough lost the A/C and tracked it down to a lack of conductivity between the A/C compressor clutch and the red plug. Again had to cut cables off the engine harness and laid in a parallel loom. Two weeks...

IAT/MAP sensor for Td5 engine

Same as bmp42, also check EGR piping (the corrugated metallic piping) if you haven't blanked it off.

The oil you're seeing is most probably coming from the rocker cover gasket. They tend to leak over time, especially from the back of the engine (where the rear acoustic cover is). When renewing it use a small amount of black hi temp silicone in both sides.

A rather annoying but inconsequent issue that sooner or later comes up in Discos series 2 (either V8 or S5): on moving the starter switch to position "II" a vibrating sort of whirling noise comes from aside the steering column. The trouble lies with the in-car temperature sensor (ICTS) mounted...

Assuming turbo is fine can try fitting a new PCV (black thing with word TOP inscribed in upper side, where breather hose joins turbo intake hose). Though if engine is breathing heavily (lift oil dipstick while idling to tell) can only prevent said oil from entering turbo + I/C + inlet manifold...

Yes xat44... generally share your view, no point in getting the sporty tool, I'm no pro, this is a one time thing, and so on... but having to contend with these clips turned into a regular chore, and eventually the cursing, bruising, picking up tools from the floor & all around wasting time &...

This is what you use to easily work with spring loaded hose clips: e.g. this one

10 years, 2 air intake filters, preventively replaced both bags 3 yrs ago. Never a problem!

Recently dealt with a similar problem while helping a fellow Disco Td5 owner with his machine. Suspension permanently dropped at about an inch above bump stops. Bags relatively new, height sensors checked ok, no system leaks, compressor and valves in good order. On stopping the engine bags...

Biglad, Uprate T/C from Ashcroft was £250 + £100 refundable core charge (in my case had to shed another £180 for shipping + 50% on customs duties... :(:( ... hey but no VAT!) New flex plate £18 Bolts, plate assy & oil pump seal another ~£50 (from other vendor) You should also replace the...

My autobox Disco Td5 developed a slight shiver just before every gear change, between 2200-2800 rpm. Over the past 6 months the shudder gradually turned into a harsh vibration, eventually sounding like ‘coarse gravel agitated in a tin can’ type of noise. ATF & filter checked and replaced...