Thanks Lawson86... very helpful. I think I'll definitely go the gas route next time, as opposed to gasless.

Thanks again for the info guys... you know, as I was hoping to make the engine bay more secure by fitting an in-board release mech - after reading your comments, I think I'll try something else! If it's as easy as mentioned to reach inside the engine bay to access the gubbins, there's little...

Can't seem to find anything detailed though a search, so wondered if anyone's successfully converted their grille mounted bonnet release mechanism (I have an '85 90), to an in-cab solution? Can't say I'm particularly comfortable with a bonnet release mechanism that can be opened from outside...

Just out of interest, which welder did you buy? I have a gasless MIG unit here which I've attempted using several times, but it's pretty rubbish - the welds formed are invariably weak and look terrible.

I mounted new Defender seat frames (2015) onto older runners (1985 model year type - two mouting bolts per runner, as opposed to 4 for the newer variants), without any issues. There are subtle differences between the old and new frames, but provided you are able to bolt your present frame...

Thanks for the opinions/feedback there guys - all very helpful. Looking at how neat they are fitted, combined with the benefit of not having to lug a lump of metal about with me in the cab, I think I'll go for it. As mentioned, there are +ve's and -ve's, but as part of a multi-pronged approach...

Has anyone used one of these pedal lock jobbies? There are other options on the market, some at half the price, but the X-Defend remains 'fitted' even when not in use, so there's no issue with storage - barely get a tool kit in my truck cab! £170 is a fair lump of cash, but if it does a decent...

Thanks Guys... the concept of a wacky engine swap is starting to seem less appealing, particularly given the additional costs and hassle factor, so I guess it's going to be a Tdi unit of some denomination this time. I'll take a closer look at the how-to guides here on Landy Zone and hopefully...

With a requirement to tow a mid-size family caravan, my trusty old 2.5 n/a is going to have to make way for something a little more suitable in the engine department. Having been away from LR's for a few years and with prices of decent 200 Tdi units now requiring organ donation, I'm going to...

Having ordered the latter-type (bearing-bearing) overhaul kit in error first time around, this is something I wondered, too! I'm not 100% on this, BUT provided the swivel balls are the same spec across all models - for early-type (upper pin-bush & lower pin-bearing set-up), the top pin is of...

As James has said... pin and bush at top, with a pin and (taper) bearing at bottom. Later models had the bearing arrangement top and bottom. My swivels were completely shot, both sides (heavily pitted, with disintegrated seals and accompanying leaks), so I replaced everything from scratch. Had...

Thanks Guys... maybe best to run with the rubber bulkhead type and see how they go.

Reading through a few related threads here, it seems as if the latter, foam-type (fitted to vent flaps), seals are a better bet than the original rubber (fitted to bulkhead), type found on my 1985 '90. Looking at a few websites the latter, foam-type seals are quoted as being suitable for models...

I'm convinced that the PO of my 90 was a cross between Frank Spencer and Worzel Gummidge - the list of bodges is too long and depressing to detail. On a positive, after 2 years of ownership, I reckon I'm now about half way through putting things right - there again, every time I look, there's...

When you switch-off the ignition/circuit, I'm assuming that the gauge drops to E, or is it permanently at the F end of the dial? If the needle does drop away once the ignition is turned-off, it'll likely be an issue with the tank-end of the circuit. Could be something as simple as a gummed-up...

Faulty selector switch?

Must be the solenoid... surely? Can you post the outcome when you get to the bottom of what's responsible?

As above... start with the rear drive flanges and work forward if the issues persist. I had similar problems with my 90 (noisy and sloppy drivetrain) but cannot say definitively, which components were principally to blame - I just worked forward replacing bits as time and funds allowed...

Thanks guys... as always, amazingly helpful and informative advice from some of the friendliest people I've met :) I'll get this job nailed tomorrow - will run a cable from the battery -ve terminal through the middle seat box and onto one of the gear/transfer box mounting bolts (in tandem with...

Thanks for that... the starting issue is slow cranking speed and reluctance for the engine to 'catch'. The local LR indy says that running an earth from battery -ve to the rear of gearbox will help with this, but as per my post, I'm not sure where on the gearbox to connect up to - would ANY bolt...