Usually 3/8” UNF. 90/110 should be metric though, unless someone’s changed stuff about or put an early Disco/RRC axle on.

If you manually actuate the solenoid and tie it off then it’ll start, but there’s no need as the lever on the injection pump sits in the ‘run’ position naturally. So just disconnect the solenoid. You’d then have to manually pull the lever to stop it. You could fit a stop cable like an old...

It’s a stop lever on the injection pump, which is usually actuated by a 3-wire solenoid. The standard wiring for these is that the ‘trigger’ wire is fed off the starter motor relay exciter wire and the ‘hold’ wire off the ignition switch. If you disconnect the cable from the injection pump lever...

From 2002 onwards they used longer key barrels in the doors so that the key could be shared between ignition and doors. You need the later type I’m afraid.

Monroe shocks use a special bush that’s thinner than the standard Land Rover ones. You may be able to buy a set of bushes from a Monroe stockist, or there are some polyurethane ones available that fit apparently. When I had this problem I just changed the whole shocks instead as it was easier...

I used the smallest crimp size I had, but if I recall correctly I did have to tweak a few of them with a pair of pliers to get them in the connector housing. I suspect that unless you have the proper proprietary crimping tool for the specific connector type there will always be an element of...

Did they not change the width of the centre seat at some point during production? When the outboard seats were moved in an inch or so?

EKC000030PMA is the latest part number, from 2002 onwards. Have you ordered a genuine Land Rover one and received one that is the wrong size? This site seems to suggest that it was too big for his 1997 door, implying that it would fit your later door...

Usually things that appear in all gears except fourth are related to the layshaft as all the gears use that except fourth. Bearings or something unhappy in there.

Yes, straight swap. Get new lock tabs for the bolt heads if yours has those.

I’ve had the ebay cheapies (utterly terrible), the Boomslang (also terrible quality, just better relays) and finally the Landreizger (properly made and very nice quality). Don’t waste your money on the cheap ones. If you don’t want to pay for the proper loom, buy the bits and make it yourself...

Not sure what that small plug is on the car but it’s not the towing wiring. On earlier models the towing electrics plug into all the separate connection blocks behind the right hand rear lights. Later on they moved to a single plug but if you can’t find one yours must be too early.

Yes they are. I swapped my 6-bolt for a 4-bolt.

Don’t contact the DVLA, there’s no need and they’re good at turning nothing into big problems. If the V5C says light 4x4 utility then you’re in luck as that can be pretty much any body style. You want as little detail on there as possible.

Sorry, but yes there is. It’s worth it though, I promise!

It’s looking good. Getting to a rolling chassis is a great morale boost.

Genuine suspension parts look expensive until you consider that the springs will last hundreds of thousands of miles. Armstrong are OE for dampers and can be bought very reasonably (I paid ~£35 for a pair of rear ones last week). The Metalastik bushes are best bought from Land Rover in my...

Normal. It will come down a bit with the weight of the engine/body on the chassis.

Only if you have a 90.

The cheap ebay ones were almost certainly not legal, as the poor pattern showed. There are many out there with fake ‘E’ markings. However the OP has removed these units. Chances are the Wipac ones are properly marked and legal so all should be well.