Fuel pressure sensor faulty. Allan

Don't worry it's not meant to do anything. It's a Freelander quirk. Allan

But even if the EGR valve itself isn't being controlled by the vacuum solenoid it shouldn't resulted in misfiring or the spluttering the OP refers to. The EGR would just stay shut. Allan

Hang on a minute here guys. There aren't any electrical connections to the EGR valve so what are the garage talking about ? Allan

You wouldn't have been out much in the recent bad weather then. Our neighbours A4 sat on their drive for two weeks 'coz it couldn't get out. Like a lot of guys on here it bothers me when people who don't have experience of a Freelander ( I know you have so don't start) offer "advice" to others...

The TD4 system should be self bleeding and no programming is required. Check all electrical connections that were undone and check fuel pipe unions and the leak off pipes. Try cranking it over for longer than you would normally. Allan

The glass should be removed before undoing the regulator from the door. The glass is held by clamps to the carriages of the regulator mech. With the glass down a few inches you should be able to see the clamps at each side of the window. They are 10 A/F hex head screws. There are marks on the...

If it is a TD4 I think it's a TX20 but why not buy a small set of Torx bits which will be better value than buying a singleton. Allan

Glad you fixed it. How was the problem identified ? Allan

No , never done it again. I can't remember whether I had had changed the crankcase filter before or after this happening but it's worth doing if you haven't changed it recently. I also changed the fuel filter, under the RH rear wheel arch on mine, at some point as well. Sorry I can't be much...

I agree ^^^^^. When this happened on my previous FL , it was cured by replacing the master cylinder. Allan

Get the trim off and look in the corners of the door. With the glass down you should be able to see the clamp set up, one each side . Undo the bolt which releases the plastic pads and withdraw the glass upwards. Allan Edit. Sorry I duplicated Optimus' response but for some reason the...

Don't cut the other wire. Doing that just means you've got another cable to replace. Undo the 2 clamps that hold the glass and remove it upwards. Undo the fasteners holding the regulator unit in the door and remove. Dismantle the motor head and replace the cable. There's a lot of posts on the...

If it is the contact come away from the glass I did manage to resolder it using a "domestic" type soldering iron. You can get at the contacts with the window dropped a couple of inches. Allan

After having removed the remains of the captive nut a "J" type roofing bolt makes a good replacement. Nut on top obviously. Allan

Have a look at this Land Rover FAQ - 109 Coachbuilder's Drawing 45 degrees gets mentioned but it is all down to ground conditions. Allan

As you may be aware the theory is that the injector is jacked out by the C clamp using the 2 studs. This is usually impossible because the studs are made of jelly. If you can pull the injector out by another means the C clamp will come out with the injector. However the pillars of the injector...

And to replace what was the captive bolt I used a roofing J bolt and wingnut. No more seizing problems. Allan

You can access the master cylinder and remove it's lid. The system can be bled normally but the MC has a small capacity and you have to keep topping up the fluid. If you pressure bleed from the nipple the fluid has to go somewhere so you still need to take the cap off. Allan

That's correct but the "lids" of the pockets can be removed to give full width if needed. Allan