The manual lock is only to raise the window. Hold the unlock button on fob to lower. Reset window by going all the way up with the door closed, but as you have to feed it into position it sounds like it's out of alignment. Remove door card and the fixings allow it to be angled in or out. The...

If you can bleed the clutch, just do it every six months. If it's generally reliable and you like the car it's worth keeping.

Needle lift sensor monitors the operation of the injector. Could be wiring fault, check connections on injectors. Ideally test injector operation with osciloscope.

Rear diff is a usual suspect.

With starter disconnected from original neg and replaced with your 12v supply shouldn't affect anything else. The positive will be common to the cars original electrics. I assume when you connect the jump leads the starter will spin and there is no other connection to the starter.

I understand for the 2 rollers, they rotate in different directions. That should mean there is no movement in the prop/vcu. A bit like if you spin one wheel the other side spins in the opposite direction and the prop doesnt move. I may be wrong!!

I would imagine so. Not seen rear cupholders though.

Looking at the gov website lists chassis and engine as major change, it then says that affect the way it drives. So not sure now if as you say like for like is ok.

New chassis kills the tax exemption as a significant change. Trade plates at your risk as the fine is high for misuse. Trade plates cost as well and could be as much as the tax. Given the original year would be a fixed price.

To strengthen any glue use tea bag mesh. As above though, I'd just screw it in place.

The vcu bearings need to be dead straight.

are the handbrake activator bits on the shoes nice and free? Is this a fl1? Adjustment is get them to bind then back off a little bit. The self adjusters don't seem very good.

You say turns over fast, is it faster than usual. I'm thinking no compression or timing chain issue. Because after a few minutes of cranking I'd expect a significant drop in cranking speed.

It may be worth getting an elm237 clone and app to read codes and view live data. Dpf data should show pressure in and pressure out, should be very similar as the dpf shouldn't give much resistance.

Remember to leave some skin there too

As far as I am aware the head gasket you need depends on the engine, the height of the liners in the block. Dmgrs.co.uk have a lot of info and can supply the gasket. Don't turn the engine with the head off though.

I would try again with engine running, extra voltage may get it open. Push the door inwards to relieve any pressure on the latch before trying to open. Else it a case of getting door card off which is on here somewhere.

looking at this video both bolts are removed, and the piston wound all the way back. The slide pins, behind the rubber cover, comes out and needs greasing every time or it'll seize. May need a clean up if rusted. Obviously, as in the video, super clean overalls required and super clean work...

I think mine have done around 7000 miles, tempted by the HD ones, or accept changing them every couple of years. Easy enough to change even as a service item when checking slide pin on front brakes.

Drop links have a limited life span!