Evening,

I don't post too much on here as I don't have enough mechanical knowledge to pass on to others unfortunately but guess what... I have an issue so selfishly looking for experienced others to kindly put forward hopeful remedies,

My 13 plate SD4 2.2 over the last few weeks has recently started experiencing loss of power when accelerating, inconsistent idling & running patterns on a daily basis. It's had a full service/mot back in March & recently (3 weeks ago) had new fuel filter (Purflex brand). I had this done on the back of this issue as the first port of call the rule this out. upon picking up my vehicle the garage advised that the car went into limp mode & had to perform a re-gen as the it was something to do with potentially doing a lot of short runs. They plugged in diagnostic, performed re-gen effectively resetting something??? & advised to take the car for a long run. Having done this the problem doesn't really appear to have gone, it had seemed to rectify itself it seems on two occasions where when pulling out of a junction, the car momentarily refused to move when accelerating (only way I can describe it as is a blockage being cleared) then all of a sudden they car picked up drastically & it felt back to normal how it should be, however this lasted only a few minutes then it seemed the issue instantly came back & the inconsistent revving (like it doesn't match the acceleration from the throttle, sometimes revving too high compared to how far down the throttle is.

I've put new fuel in with Redex recently & no change. Would this be fuel related?

I appreciate I will have to take it to a garage but would like some idea of what it may be if anyone can offer their knowledge? I do have a Haynes manual & was actually going to do the fuel filter myself as I felt capable but then found it needed bleeding & priming so this stopped me. I am hands on with certain things so like window/boot regulators, more than likely if it's in the engine bay not visible then I'll be taking it to the garage again.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions

First the car should not go into limp mode after a fuel filter change if it was done correctly, so I'm wondering did they prime the system before trying to start, then found out that it needed priming and messed with the injectors, thus adding an air into the system so it went into limp mode.

How many miles is your FL2 have the boost hoses been checked for splits, or loose clips, wonder if the cogs in the throttle are damaged.

I would not take it back to the same garage find a better one which know these cars.

Hi Arctic,

So they advised it was something to do with the amount of soot build up due to only doing short runs, this prompted the diagnostic plug in & consequently advised that they needed to do a re-gen. this garage is a Land Rover only garage that i'd never used before but came in cheapest by £20 on a fuel filter change.

Mileage is 128,000.

I've not had checked the boost hoses checked no, assume this is something I can do, are they accessible? Again with the cogs, not been checked so I couldn't say...

Problem is I'm running out of garages that I can trust. This garage were actually very friendly & the service seemed tip top in my book. Can I presume they fitted incorrectly? Would a fuel filter change have cleared the issue I'm experiencing?

Cobby44 said:

Hi Arctic,

So they advised it was something to do with the amount of soot build up due to only doing short runs, this prompted the diagnostic plug in & consequently advised that they needed to do a re-gen. this garage is a Land Rover only garage that i'd never used before but came in cheapest by £20 on a fuel filter change.

Mileage is 128,000.

I've not had checked the boost hoses checked no, assume this is something I can do, are they accessible? Again with the cogs, not been checked so I couldn't say...

Problem is I'm running out of garages that I can trust. This garage were actually very friendly & the service seemed tip top in my book. Can I presume they fitted incorrectly? Would a fuel filter change have cleared the issue I'm experiencing?

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I would have thought if it was Landrover garage only they should have solved the problem easy, it could be build up in the EGR system, hoses can be checked but you will need to get under the car for the turbo hose.

regarding the re-gen the car should have told this before it needed it ? so why didn't it.

Does this sound anything like your car.

I would check the throttle body for wear

Arctic2 said:

I would have thought if it was Landrover garage only they should have solved the problem easy, it could be build up in the EGR system, hoses can be checked but you will need to get under the car for the turbo hose.

regarding the re-gen the car should have told this before it needed it ? so why didn't it.

Does this sound anything like your car.

Freelander 2 sd4 losing power pulling away at junctions

Hello, I’m new to Freelanders and I seem to have a problem with mine, It’s a 61 plate diesel sd4. Runs like a dream for 25 mins but after that if I pull up to a junction and set off to continue my journey it creeps out of the junction for about 10ft then picks up as normal. Has anyone else had...

www.landyzone.co.uk

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So when I booked in the car for a fuel filter change, I didn’t explain to the garage until after why I wanted it changed. I wanted to have it done to rule this out if the issue persisted. The garage then questioned why I wanted it done which I then explained why.

I believe the car went into limp when they took it for a test drive after. They then advised me that when they plugged it in, it came up with a code suggesting something that then required them to do a re-gen.

I don’t really want to question the garage as I’m not that mechanically minded & it was my first time there. I’ll check the hoses that I can see over the weekend whilst I’m changing the tailgate switch (which I can do myself).

If the hoses are ok, any suggestions on what route I should take next?

Thanks for any help in advance

It may be worth getting an elm237 clone and app to read codes and view live data. Dpf data should show pressure in and pressure out, should be very similar as the dpf shouldn't give much resistance.

J_D said:

It may be worth getting an elm237 clone and app to read codes and view live data. Dpf data should show pressure in and pressure out, should be very similar as the dpf shouldn't give much resistance.

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Hello J_D, this would be out of my capability plus when it comes to electronics, I’d rather not start plugging things in & out if I don’t know what I’m doing…

Cobby44 said:

Hello J_D, this would be out of my capability plus when it comes to electronics, I’d rather not start plugging things in & out if I don’t know what I’m doing…

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You can't cock anything up by plugging in an ODBII reader and looking at the information it displays to you.

It might just give you a better understanding of how your car works, or is failing. Which is, after all, why people come on here.

A £5 quid dongle off Ali, or £15 from a shop in UK, and the free Torque app on your phone is all you need.

That will just show you info from your engine. Pay a bit more and you can get a device (eg Autel AP200) that will show info on all the other bits of the car - eg ABS.

GrumpyGel said:

You can't cock anything up by plugging in an ODBII reader and looking at the information it displays to you.

It might just give you a better understanding of how your car works, or is failing. Which is, after all, why people come on here.

A £5 quid dongle off Ali, or £15 from a shop in UK, and the free Torque app on your phone is all you need.

That will just show you info from your engine. Pay a bit more and you can get a device (eg Autel AP200) that will show info on all the other bits of the car - eg ABS.

Click to expand...

@GrumpyGel… would the below work? Or do you have a suggestion? I would be happy to learn how to use & yes I’d like to increase my knowledge a bit more.

Cobby44 said:

@GrumpyGel… would the below work? Or do you have a suggestion? I would be happy to learn how to use & yes I’d like to increase my knowledge a bit more.

Click to expand...

Hi, you haven't put the link/pic in - but any plug in dongle that is described as ELM327 should work - bare in mind they are usually cheap Chinese tat - so possibly they won't!

I mention the Torque app - I know this has a really cute/fancy dashboard like display - showing speed/rpm/temps etc - I presume it also lists all of the 'live' data (eg fuel/exhaust pressures). I've never really used it in anger, never had reason to, but when people talk of free ODB apps to download, Toque looks to be the defacto go-to. Would definitely be the first app to try to familiarise yourself with reading ODB data.

I've been driving an L Series F1 for the last 13 years or so. Although it has an ODB port, it is not ODBII compatible. I bought 1 of those dongles anyway as they are so cheap on the off chance it would work and I could have a play - but of course it would wouldn't! However, my mate's Mazda was having troubles, he plugged in to that, and it confirmed his suspicions of that was wrong - pretty sure that was using the torque app as well.

I've recently bought an F2. The main problem with that was that it only came with 1 key - so I bought an Autel AP200 and some cheap keys of Ali - and it managed to program them to the car - after a fashion! It also does a full scan of the many ECUs on the vehicle and has scared my shitless finding many historic (or are they current!) error codes.

GrumpyGel said:

Hi, you haven't put the link/pic in - but any plug in dongle that is described as ELM327 should work - bare in mind they are usually cheap Chinese tat - so possibly they won't!

I mention the Torque app - I know this has a really cute/fancy dashboard like display - showing speed/rpm/temps etc - I presume it also lists all of the 'live' data (eg fuel/exhaust pressures). I've never really used it in anger, never had reason to, but when people talk of free ODB apps to download, Toque looks to be the defacto go-to. Would definitely be the first app to try to familiarise yourself with reading ODB data.

I've been driving an L Series F1 for the last 13 years or so. Although it has an ODB port, it is not ODBII compatible. I bought 1 of those dongles anyway as they are so cheap on the off chance it would work and I could have a play - but of course it would wouldn't! However, my mate's Mazda was having troubles, he plugged in to that, and it confirmed his suspicions of that was wrong - pretty sure that was using the torque app as well.

I've recently bought an F2. The main problem with that was that it only came with 1 key - so I bought an Autel AP200 and some cheap keys of Ali - and it managed to program them to the car - after a fashion! It also does a full scan of the many ECUs on the vehicle and has scared my shitless finding many historic (or are they current!) error codes.

Click to expand...

Hi Grumpy,

Either of the below code readers? Or is a dongle & app better?

So I’m assuming that some codes will come up if I’m experiencing this issue? Or am I just looking for readings in relation to fuel/exhaust pressures? Forgive me I’m a total rookie but eager to learn the basics of this.

Ta in advance

Cobby44 said:

Hi Grumpy,

Either of the below code readers? Or is a dongle & app better?

So I’m assuming that some codes will come up if I’m experiencing this issue? Or am I just looking for readings in relation to fuel/exhaust pressures? Forgive me I’m a total rookie but eager to learn the basics of this.

Ta in advance

Click to expand...

Personally, I'd prefer a dongle and app. You may have more of a setup, you have to pair the 2 with bluetooth, but you get a bigger display and don't have just a couple of buttons that you have to work out what they do at different times and were programmed by a mad Chinaman so make no sense. You're also not limited by the cable as to where you can sit/stand and use it.

First port of call would be to read any codes.

You can then also check things like the pressures you mention and there are people on here who can tell you if they look OK or not.

GrumpyGel said:

Hi, you haven't put the link/pic in - but any plug in dongle that is described as ELM327 should work - bare in mind they are usually cheap Chinese tat - so possibly they won't!

I mention the Torque app - I know this has a really cute/fancy dashboard like display - showing speed/rpm/temps etc - I presume it also lists all of the 'live' data (eg fuel/exhaust pressures). I've never really used it in anger, never had reason to, but when people talk of free ODB apps to download, Toque looks to be the defacto go-to. Would definitely be the first app to try to familiarise yourself with reading ODB data.

I've been driving an L Series F1 for the last 13 years or so. Although it has an ODB port, it is not ODBII compatible. I bought 1 of those dongles anyway as they are so cheap on the off chance it would work and I could have a play - but of course it would wouldn't! However, my mate's Mazda was having troubles, he plugged in to that, and it confirmed his suspicions of that was wrong - pretty sure that was using the torque app as well.

I've recently bought an F2. The main problem with that was that it only came with 1 key - so I bought an Autel AP200 and some cheap keys of Ali - and it managed to program them to the car - after a fashion! It also does a full scan of the many ECUs on the vehicle and has scared my shitless finding many historic (or are they current!) error codes.

Click to expand...

So I’ve had

GrumpyGel said:

Personally, I'd prefer a dongle and app. You may have more of a setup, you have to pair the 2 with bluetooth, but you get a bigger display and don't have just a couple of buttons that you have to work out what they do at different times and were programmed by a mad Chinaman so make no sense. You're also not limited by the cable as to where you can sit/stand and use it.

First port of call would be to read any codes.

You can then also check things like the pressures you mention and there are people on here who can tell you if they look OK or not.

Click to expand...

So I actually managed to have use of a diagnostic tool about 10 minutes ago, it was an OBDII icarsoft CR Pro reader, no codes came up whatsoever.

I’m going to take it for a run over the weekend, put it into Semi Auto & let the engine run at higher revs for a few miles & see what happens.

I’ve also been advised of mobile carbon cleaning mechanics that effectively flush the DPF? Any experience on this anyone?

Cobby44 said:

So when I booked in the car for a fuel filter change, I didn’t explain to the garage until after why I wanted it changed. I wanted to have it done to rule this out if the issue persisted. The garage then questioned why I wanted it done which I then explained why.

I believe the car went into limp when they took it for a test drive after. They then advised me that when they plugged it in, it came up with a code suggesting something that then required them to do a re-gen.

I don’t really want to question the garage as I’m not that mechanically minded & it was my first time there. I’ll check the hoses that I can see over the weekend whilst I’m changing the tailgate switch (which I can do myself).

If the hoses are ok, any suggestions on what route I should take next?

Thanks for any help in advance

Click to expand...

Have a read of this for regeneration of DPF if you are doing a lot of short journeys, I'm sure you will find threads on here as well.