Good news, your rover diff will be a spare for the front axle.

Will try to remove the diff rear plate and check it out tommorow. Thank you all for the help and sorry about the not so good written English, I am writting on a smartphone and it is not my native language :)

Depending on how the diff was welded up you might be able to replace it with a Detroit soft locker, fairly easy job. Like this.

Da nada,esta bom.

If you can find a replacement axle you'll be fine. Parts for Salisbury axles are available. And there are great tutorials on YouTube. Britannia restorations, Mike, Covers a full rebuild.

I disagree. You are having fun and learning great new things. A Toyota Yaris hybrid isn't nearly as much fun.

Wrong that’s a Salisbury axle which is correct for the 109

Oh, no, that's a Salisbury. Your replacement diff won't do. Salisbury diffs are tough, and tricky to work on. 24 splines on both ends of the shaft.

I'd works that you could damage the stub axle, which is what it's catching on. You can remove the stub axle and avoid damaging it.

Any photos? If damaged they can be hard to remove.

Ah! Yes. I understand. Do you have a photo of the original diff? The one fitted to the back?

That diff doesn't look welded to me.

Welded. Translation error?

The shaft can be loose, it floats.

You are missing a cap. You should have a Salisbury axle. Hard to break the half shafts on those....

Only One spring was found on the seletor, só that explained why it was hard to find first gear. Cleaned a bit (look at all that goo) and added a second spring i had around and seems much easier :)

3) you think you do more miles to the gallon

That's an air breather for the engine. Any excess pressure in the engine goes out here. There are a few causes. The o ring around the base is not sealing, and engine oil is simply splashing over the area. Undo the little bolt that holds it in...

Why? I don't understand, please explain.

Actually, that's correct. Most vehicles over read by up to 10%. It's a couple of things: 1) protection against speeding tickets, if the car was accurate or under reading, then the manufacturer could be on the hook. 2) the car gets serviced...

Nice; decent pickup. Ready for 3/4 tilt. Have you found the line manual? Break the problems down into single issues. What bugs you the most?

A thin smear of grewase on the pins to stop things sticking, then injecta. littel silicone selamt into the femal Bet it will catch as you refit the flaps, maybe try a thin smear of grease on the pins, then some silicone sealant in the female...

@Wildefalcon i don’t have any problems with my pins rattling.. ;) (Zoom in and see why)

Well. The heat shrink worked. Sort of. As predicted it was marginally too thick to allow the pin to fit. But it worked well as a shim.

So sorry to see that. My condolences.

Heat shrink should do it!

Long nuts & bolts Big split pins Cv or thicker grease on the pins

Ummmm, yes, thanks, food for thought!

The vent flaps on my series 3 rattle at higher speeds, they are loose on the hinge pins. It's irritating, as it disturbs the serenity provided by the rubble of the tyres and the whine of the transfer box. Aside from shimming the pins with...

I'm in agreement with the over electronic thing. I do have a radio and a CB, that's plenty semi conductors for me. If you want semiconductors buy a modern defender. If you want reliable semi conductors buy a Japanese built Toyota.