The new switch is positioned just barley touching the pedal keeping the brake lights off. When you depress the pedal the switch will open and activate the brake lights. Make sure you lock it in place with the lock nut.

That's where I went wrong. You barely screw it in at all.

Yes. Bolted to the gauge clock. Has green wires.

Be careful fitting a replacement, they are finicky to get right unless you read the manual. I broke the switch the first time I replaced mine, many decades ago.

I think it was an option. Parts book is your friend. But not sure if it was the same as the post 1980's system.

The later series have servos, and a switch in the engine compartment. Mine is like that, not that exact type of switch, though. Surprised the bonnet closes!

Indeed. Or electrical

Well done! I use power tools for this work. Pneumatic Impact wrench.

Yes, no faculty on the cav pumps

Yes, was very pleased. Some serious off roads in that as well.

That's a breather, it lets excess air out through that hole. Just paint it up, it's fine. But you can swap to the military version with a proper breather if you want.

Well done. Another one back. I did 1,600 miles in mine over the last week, and only saw 2 other series.

What did they weld it to? Any photos?

This is mostly right:

Yes. That's normal. Unusual for a Salisbury to fail.

You need to open it up, all them bolts around the outer. Mark case both sides so it goes back in same place. You tube "Britannica Restorations" for how to set it all back up. But before going there can you see any welding on the bevel gears...

I made one. You can get the core parts on line and weld up the steel frame. Or, if you know a ford transit garage, they might have one.

That's a name from the past! Rovers North forum?

After you have driven it and it has played up have a feel of the ignition coil. If hot likely as @Wildefalcon says above it is breaking down. Also as @kermit_rr post replace the points and condenser. Do you have a Temperature gauge fitted?

Then my first check would be to replace the condenser and check the points

Here's a link to a lovely collection of a dozen Series Land Rovers for sale here in Ireland. https://irelandmade.ie/ Just click on the Home tab on this page to get you in the right direction.....

As above, but for the Stage One S3.

1951 series 1 for me, what a piece of kit that is.

Assuming it's petrol. Could be evaporation of the fuel in the fuel lines. Could be the fuel pick up pipe in the tank part blocked. Or could be the coil breaking down.

No. No. No money, no time, no storage. But.... 107 ckd SW......... Yum

I realise it's been a while since my last post but to put a full stop under this... After debating whether or not to go big bucks and get a genuine Lucas relay or a blue box 'replace it in another couple of years' job i sat back and thought about...

Yes, many things did exactly that. Lubricating the spud shaft between the transit gearbox and the defender transfer box not least of them.

That joy awaits me. Still, cost of new hitch on a grenadier? £1,400. Depreciation while waiting on the parts to fit a hitch? £1,400.

They rattled when open, mostly sorted now.

Hi!