No series engine has a timing belt. Sounds like it could be a fan pulley coming loose and catching the cowl, or an alternator bearing. Check the tension on the fan belt.

Main changes were better synchro hub teeth designs, but stronger? Not sure. Big changes though on some of the cogs, tooth count changed.

Plugs out, out of gear, turn over by hand. Starting handle or socket on the crank bolt.

Thx yeah got it. Was connecting to the wrong space connector.

What's the voltage regulator output like? 10v steady?

Petrol? Standard starter? Solenoid on the battery tray. White (& red?) wire from ign switch to solenoid. Battery - fat red to solenoid and another fat red to starter.

Some of their kit is excellent. The CVs that the coil sprung lot use are the best in the market. There's a few other examples out there. Most of their stuff is meh. And there's far too much crap as well. Infuriating, to be honest as a tiny bit...

Britpart. Covering the full spectrum of quality parts. From rubbish to excellent.

I think Marshland were the JLR OEM. So there is that. Both are good enough. Which is cheaper and available soonest?

Wouldn't have thought so. There's a lot of movement in geometry with the spring length and shackle angle. Which bracket?

There is huge variability in sensor calibration. I ended up going through my stock of old sensors until I found one that matched the gauge

I hate that noise. A fancy, shiny, slick car pulls up and then makes a gross farting sound. So poor.

I've it set a bit too low, as I'm planning on increasing the boost on the turbo quite a bit in the next round of upgrades. It came on last summer in traffic. I was towing a trailer with a Bridgeport onboard at the time. The fan only ran for a...

Mine. After market silicon hoses with a sensor for the electric fan.

Solder heat shrink joints are okay, but a new bullet connector and block is most authentic.

Ive just replaced camshaft bearings on my 200 with a generic tool from eBay, no need to get line bored as the bearings come pre-finished now.

Head off, I remove as much as I can, makes lifting the thing easier. New gaskets all round. Composite gasket. Up to you on turners heads, I fitted the head from a 2.5 on mine. Assume exhaust studs are poor, if inexpensive, get anyway.

Okay so I think I've sorted this - clearly not looking properly at 11pm last night when I was trying to fit it. If you look at the sixth photo, you can just about see the stud from the mount sticking down, this was resting on the chassis leg...

Sometimes looking at an issue the next day provides the answer. :D :D

Appreciate the update. Helps the next person, thank you.

Without knowing the regulations impossible to answer. As above, Britpart are, unbelievable as it sounds, a supplier of genuine parts, so it's a service replacement, not an after market part.

As above, fit with no washers. And don't tighten. Then add washers when your are doing the alignment. You can cut a chunk out of the washers, so that they are U shaped spacers instead. Saves you taking the bolt out ....

I had this problem. The cage doesn't hold the rollers tight enough to slip in. Genuine bearing needed.

Hi! Welcome.

Cable tie around the rollers?

Genuine bearing? Is the problem that the rollers stop the whole thing going in?

I bought one on eBay. Electronic job. Crap crimped connectors, but otherwise does a good job. Similar to this.

Good work. Slow the rust down so much it's effectively stopped.

You could get in touch with the military vehicle trust. They're officially recognised by the DVLA as vehicle inspectors and can get you the registration. Costs about £200 for non members.