Right, got her running but she's very lumpy & idling at around 90rpm. So does that mean I need to slightly loosen the second row of bolts on the FIP and knock it forwards a touch. Guess the pump needs to be rotated anticlockwise a touch too. I'm still following Datateks plan as per timing but...

Right it's back in. It felt okay - no resistance. Here's a before picture of the woodruff key before I removed it: And here's after: Does that look okay to you? Just checking... Nearly forgot to put the brass nut on at 50NM before pulling the flywheel locking pin out...😨

Could the bolt be a bleed nut?

Bet the engineers didn't know either. Just thought it looks nice. Rustic...

Right. I just went ahead & did it; 90NM for the threaded inspection bung, 25NM for the inspection bolt & 45NM for the delivery value holders. All went well. FYI: I didn't torque it up like this. I had the steel end nipped up in the vice not the aluminium. Still don't know what this bolts for...

Cheers! I think these are the correct RAVE torque settings for the FIP but I can't see the correct torque for the larger threaded bung.

How do! Three weeks later & not much done. Been waiting on a workbench to attach a vice properly which took the best part of two weeks while I also accidentally ordered just one metal advance gasket which meant waiting another week. I've got most of the seals replaced now but I was going to...

Cheers, Datatek. In that case I'll leave it.

Right it's out... The woodruff key looks a little chewed on one corner as does the sprocket keyway. Will it be okay or need replacing? The car was running sweet as a nut besides the leak. Maby it's best just left as is...

The RAVE manual doesn't mention using an adapter sleeve.

I've got the specialty tool for removing the pump. But! Before I commit, how does the tool hold the sprocket central after the pumps tapered shaft is removed? There seems to be space around the tool within the tensioner sleeve, so that can be what keeps it central?

Oh! Might I enquire what that is? 😃

Yeah, I replaced the top one and it didn't do anything so it's probably the lower ring. It's leaking very badly now to the point it's leaving very large puddles where I regularly park it.

Thank you, Mark. That's reassuring advice. Does the fip removal tool fit the tensioner pivot sleeve exactly or will the sprocket be loose after fip removal? I was going to make grooves between the fip caps to align them exactly. Hopefully this will help with the overall timing. I've read 750rpm...

I was going to do them all and just get it over with. I guarantee If I did the quick job it would come back to bit my backside anyway. Oh, right. If you Mark everything off and nothing moves why do they need to be re-timed?