As far as chain stretch goes, my method is no different to the DTI method, it just allows a more accurate setting.

Theoretically but the last movement when timing has to be towards the engine and it is very fiddly so I wouldn't rely on it. Mine's timed up as per RAVE. My only concern with Datatek's method is the possibility of masking chain stretch too much...

PM me with an email address and I will send you the info.

Oh! Might I enquire what that is? 😃

My steel rule method of final timing the FIP is easier and more accurate than the DTI method in RAVE.

If you haven’t had the chains off or changed anything should be okay if it was good before. I’m fairly sure the woodruff key should be roughly vertical when locked at cyl1 tdc but not 110%, others memories may be fresher, but as you say it’s all...

Procedurally JLR doesn’t expect you to have a nanocom. It’s set to 1/1000mm or near as your patience eyes will allow taking into account wear on chains sprockets pump internals etc so it’s reset after any interference as a practice. It probably...

Yeah, I replaced the top one and it didn't do anything so it's probably the lower ring. It's leaking very badly now to the point it's leaving very large puddles where I regularly park it.

Are you sure it's not just the top cover leaking as was the case on both mine? Easy job in situe if that is the case. The fuel runs down making it appear that there are other joints leaking. No timing problems removing the top cover.

Thank you, Mark. That's reassuring advice. Does the fip removal tool fit the tensioner pivot sleeve exactly or will the sprocket be loose after fip removal? I was going to make grooves between the fip caps to align them exactly. Hopefully this...

Just to note, any difference in the position of the upper caps on the fip when replaced. If not exactly where you found it, it'll either not run and or idle very low or idle very fast, like very fast!! 😬

The only reference you really need is the fip body relationship to the casing it's bolts too. Logic says as you have noted it should all be in place on the engine side. The only thing that can move is the fip drive shaft. Don't forget as the...

I was going to do them all and just get it over with. I guarantee If I did the quick job it would come back to bit my backside anyway. Oh, right. If you Mark everything off and nothing moves why do they need to be re-timed?

Are you doing the top cap seals, upper and lower caps? They can be done with the pump on the engine if you haven't gone to far dismantling the pump. The injector head can also be done in situ. These three are the most popular seal fail issues...

As long as the tool stays in place you can take the pump in and out with no issues. You'll have to time it up afterwards anyway.

Incidentally, that was wierd. Just as I though has someone replied my phone notified me of your response.

The pumps leaking so it's a removal for new seals. As long as its locked off and I don't turn the pump shaft/woodruff key, does it matter what position it's in? As long as nothings changed while it's out it shouldn't affect the timing when I put...

Do you know if the woodruff key should be TDC on the pump?

Wammers did some detailed responses on this. I can't remember who he was helping. There is indeed another hole just before the TDC one. You don't want to be 180° out either.

Cheers. Had a look but it doesn't say.

There are 2 holes in the flywheel. Check RAVE for the full info on fitting the FIP.

Apologies if this is well discussed. I looked but couldn't find a thread. I've got the front cam lobe pointing to the injector side with the edge parallel to the guide visible in the oil filler hole & the locating flywheelpin is in & located...