To check for air coming through the system could you disconnect fuel pipe in the engine bay and run the pump with pipe in a clear jar to check.

As above, a problem selecting gears is a clutch, main box issue. Transfer box, put the diff lock in and see how much movement you have at the flanges [both props need to be off to do this properly] If there is a lot of slop when one flange is...

That's pretty much what I figured I'd need to do. Thanks to all for their input

The original ones still there? If so mark their position, cut off and weld replacements in the marked place.

As above @kermit_rr re thermostat. I often say for older vehicles you can not beat having an aftermarket capillary type temperature gauge, keep original for looks and fit it somewhere else. They read in numbers/degrees and no electrics to bother...

Many thanks both. I have just ordered an IR temp reader from off ebay as I am starting to think its actually fine on temp, but it is the sensor/wiring/new thermostat. Going to remove the termostat tonight and run it without it. I read last night...

If the top hose is hot then the thermostat is opening or stuck open. Remove the radiator cap. Rev the engine a bit, can you see the water move? If so then the pump is working. If the level doesn't rise then the water must be going somewhere ie...

All series gauge's are getting well old. The one in mine just about lifts off the bottom when up to temp. Check what temp you actually have with a IR temp reader, aim at thermostat, top hose, rad bottom hose. I had a job to find a new thermostat...

Throw up some pictures as it may help. I am not familiar with the new gearboxes. But the older ones had a couple of small earth cables for the difflock switch’s etc. and also has reverse switch wiring as well.

Sorry to say but that is not a crack. That is the result of corrosion working out from the inside of the chassis box section. What is worse is that someone in the past has done a rubbish job of patching the area probably hiding worse underneath...

I would add a second earth strap to the chassis from engine if not got one already as the engine and gearbox sits on rubber mounts

No, not that I can see.

Mine is earthed to the engine block and the radiator support bracket - definitely not standard, but it works. As the engine sits on rubber mounts, it sort of makes sense to provide a good return from the starter motor via the block.

2+ shocks this used to happen to my son's Ninety when laning. Standard length shocks and it isn't a problem.

Yes used to go to a few pay and play sites, always went for the deep water! learnt that only way to make sure was to strip and regrease after every day out.

When I was trialing a lot with my series I had those flanges that had a screw fitting in them and replaced with grease nipples. After a dirty day fresh grease pumped in. If there was water in there don't know where it went but never had to...

Do you drive through over axle deep water a lot? Although a 1990 truck mine is a late made 19j with the old axle lube system. Has 200tdi engine these days.

Yes Just EP80/90 oil to fill swivels. Some say use grease is they leak some on the ball housing to reduce the issue. Thing is when heated while driving the type of grease in one shot gets just as runny as oil. It is best to fix the seal. Bush is...

My daughter tells me there are adaption kits available to allow Isofox seats to fit older models.

A quick fix is a couple of Jubilee clips around top spring coil and seat housing.

And it is correct for pre Defender models @lynall :D

What you are thinking is all wrong. What you are describing is how the set up should be for Land Rover Ninety and One Ten models. The "Defender did not come in until late 1990. [this distinction can be important when ordering parts] I have a pre...

A 7.50 x 16 should have a 7.50” side wall and 7.50” section width. In practice many will be a bit taller esp if a mud terrain.

Doubt you fried it but you could have jammed it in gear. Try putting it in gear say 3rd high with ignition off and rock the truck back and fore. Given it's a Landy you may need a couple of mates to help do this.

There are "spot weld" removal drill bits available.

I hate that noise. A fancy, shiny, slick car pulls up and then makes a gross farting sound. So poor.

Thanks all, Nice quick job, went in from underneath and some injector release spray soon had the movement released again. While I was under there I noticed that the return spring had worn away so nice new spring on as well. Now onto alternator...

Learning to drive must be a breeze nowadays. My Golf has an electric motor on each brake caliper to apply the handbrake. Sure it will be considerably more expensive to fix than adjusting or replacing a cable.

You would be lucky to find a vehicle with a hand brake lever now.

Plenty of older vehicles around here. Had a look at an electric job the other day, just an electric servo motor pulling on cables. Another thing to go wrong so folk do not learn how to hill start using the hand brake!:(:(