When Land Rover brought out the Series 3 they started the suffix at A again. But now just to cause us confusion the location is on the top edge of the transfer box. Then there is the issue of what other folk have done in the past with fitting...

One of mine went to leak recently, no issue with the ball housing but found a bit of water had got into the back of the seal and rotted the seal spring until it gave way.

That is the way I do it if other parts in good order. When out I lower the hub swivel unit back into the wheel laid flat on the ground, holds it nice for seal change. Extra hands to get them back is good, more so the long shaft.

Off with the dash top to access the wheel box's. Swapping out the cable at motor end bit of a fiddle but several how two video's on the you tube.

It doe's sound like there is a lot of "slop" in the system. Can you move arm by hand to full sweep and usual park position? If so there can be issues with location of arm on its spindle or with the drive cable itself. Also can be problem with...

What model is your Land Rover? There are several different Series box and each has a different Suffix number/letter. Gears look different to me and so will not do. You could swap the whole transfer box section.

Moghrey mie and Bore da, From the West Wales coast. I listen to Manx radio a fair bit as it comes in well hear and has good music. Try carpricetracker.net May help with historical prices. Hwyl.

In many years gone by I did use the 36IV for other uses other than my Land Rover. I had one on my 1300 Escort. Experiments with different jets had me a good cheap power up grade [along with other tuning] over the original set up.

Hi all Just posting this for future reference more than anything so it can be searched for if needed. I’m in the process of rebuilding a zenith carb and noticed that the top cover/choke section was missing the ventilation screw/jet which forms...

All the advice has been helpful. The pass few days the weather has been good and I spent a fair amount of time evaluating my project. It looks like it worst than I thought. The more you look ...reality becomes clearer. Most of the chassis has...

The wire can corrode itself to the nozzle if left for a long time. Easy fix - cut the wire near the drum, unscrew the nozzle and pull the wire through. Put a new nozzle on.

It may be worth trying a re bleed.

Is the slave push rod the original one? Wear can be an issue.

Connections in the fuse box common issue, try cleaning them up. Old glass type?

So now : I'm going to fit 30mm spacers to the boosts 😂 Can't find tyres I like enough to justify swapping out the Insa Turbos (Michelin Crossclimate variants doesn't come in an 85 sidewall) just yet so I'll just go with the spacers. 🤷‍♀️

Spacers really are not an issue, the hub and tyre have no clue if you have spacers or different offset rims, the effect is the same. Stock wheels will rub unless you wind the steering stops to reduce lock, hence why all stock Defenders have...

Probably cold rolled, likely the most available. Strength wise not much in it for what you need, but cold has a smoother surface finish. 3mm is what I use for chassis.

hi all no more posts from me my 110 hard top letty has gone to the big garage in the sky after two cars racing hit an other car into my landy the insurance then said no more cannot mend her so im back to looking for now

STOP LOOKING, would you believe its the steering damper!!!! :rolleyes: Cheers Ian

What vehicle/year?

The only thing I have done to sort a crunched wing id replace the whole thing with a better [not new] one. However recon you are on more of a restoration than fix up. It is not hard to remove spot welds, there are special drill bits to do just...

I have done a few wings, It depends on the finish you are going for as to if it is worth the effort. In a show room truck then it is not work the effort as unless you have some serious skills, you will be riveting back together all the spotwelds...

Depends what generation, I thought they liked to split in half where the water runs down between the cab and the bed and rusts the chassis away at that point :eek:

MUD UK do a range of switches.

Hydraulic lock can only occur when water (or other liquid) enters the cylinder through an open inlet valve. The moment the piston commences the compression stroke the inlet and exhaust valves will be closed resulting in a bent con rod or rods...

Me too, I went through 3 replacements in 3 months last year before I found one that worked and kept working. A new in the box original Waxstat made one. 👍

I have had a new 200 stats that were no good, one did not open at all, best heater ever!

Thanks all sorted now 👌

The wiring looks stock and it's worked fine for years. I'm thinking must be a loose connection somewhere which might be affected by the vibration of the engine maybe. Job for another day I think.

Note that is an odd one, if switched on should go at all times the ignition is on regardless as you know. All I can think is some one has wired it wrong at some time but just a guess.☹️