Why do you think the axle may not be original. It is just because the rear has been changed? Axles are very easy to rebuild so unless there is a very good reason they are not something people tend to change. Especially as the front already has...

Like many 40 year old Land Rovers Izzy has seen a few mods. Originally a 1987 vintage 110 the engine, gearbox and back axle have all been swapped at some point. An ID of the front axle has so far eluded me. Been over the tube with a wire brush...

The injector wont be over fueling - the quanitity of fuel is the job of the fuel pump - but if the injector is not atomising the fuel correctly it might not be burning evenly, creating a potential hot spot. Testing an injector spray pattern...

Local heat buildup. If its one cylinder only then over fueling injector or blocked oil gallery in the piston crown are possible causes, with the latter only relevant if the 200TDI has oil cooled pistons. Local blockage in coolant gallery might...

Previous days have been spent getting the axles ready to drop. Most bolts were tight but shifted with a little heat. One was subject to the slitting wheel for failure to cooperate. Whilst poking around I took a look at the swivel housings and...

they are in PNG format and rendered with MS paint so the colours do not bleed into each other unlike other formats so if you down load them and open with MS paint and zoom they should stay as is

These are very good and thank you. Have you recreated them by chance? Would there be a PDF available that does not pixelate when zoomed in? At my age...my eyes need all the help possible...

Try

A multimeter is a constant toolbox companion. Strongly recommended. So is a wiring diagram. I have an '87 110 and I'm still looking. Can find miliary wiring diagram, and rough copy/difficult to read civvy examples. If you find one, please share here.

Well the proof is In the eating or in this case drooling 😂 out with the copper and in with the stainless. Fitted some brass olives each end to stop the hose clamps from pulling off. Looking rather good if I do say so myself. Only haste was that...

Rdx electric fan and switch fitted with a custom made loom, temporary made brackets made to hold the new expansion water bottle and power steering bottle. New indicator and wiper stalks fitted and all of the electrics tested. A few gremlins...

Some readers will know the LH front radius arm thread is...knackered: So I picked up a pair of secondhand arms from another local restorer/enthusiast fellow. A snip at £20 for the pair. One of the very first jobs I did as a MoD apprentice was...

This kind of mess was referred to in the workshop as a Dewhurst effort. Which works for anyone who can remember the chain of Master Butchers.

You deffo need new bolts in there ... You need: 4 off M16 x100mm bolts (10.9) - BX116201L 4 off M16 Nyloc nuts 8 off M16 Washers 2 off M20 Washers - for the back end, you can use the originals. 2 off M20 Nyloc nuts...

Thats exactly what I need. Thanks Mike.

Slackening the front axle radius arm nuts last night on Izzy revealed the LH one was...showing less than optimum on the thread: A die nut might recover that. But its asking a lot. And cost of a die nut is likely to be more than a second hand...

At some point I will be indulging in a TIG welder. Thats the first job... Many thanks for this.

This is what I was working from With all credit to the originator who is not me.. Hope it works........

I'll try to paste up the drawing I found with the dimensions

That is going to be copied here...looks very handy. Good luck with the knee healing.

I've managed to hurt my Knee pretty good, this has brought progress on all fronts down to a crawl, however I have managed to get the brackets for changing the transfer box finished. I'll have to do this on the floor, but it is a nice smooth, dry...

The shuttle vavle came off and is now in bits, being cleaned up for reassembly. The plastic switch seems to be fouling the shuttle valve itself if fully screwed down. No washer was there so head scratching time for assembly to make it work...

Not seen that before👍

And the answer is...simple. At the foremost inlet port there is a small circular peg: Push the piston in a little to take the spring pressure off it and remove it. Relax the pressure on the piston and it pops out: And its now apart...

Well...I dunno...how did they put it together? What looks like a split ring in the top image isnt...its a blob of muck. Sealed unit? Any and all thoughts most welcome.

Thats what I thought...but if its there I'm blind...will post a piccy tomorrow.

The PAS tank and pipes were removed today. The return line was in two peices, with jubilee clips either side of the join. This is what I found when I pulled em apart: A male-male union of as yet unmeasured size but likely 3/8 BSP. Might come in...

According to t'interweb there are rebuild kits for 110 brake master cylinders. Just removed the one from Izzy and for the life of me I cannot see how it comes apart? As an 87 year model Izzy would have had drums to the rear but it now sports a...

A while back I posted a question about what 2-pack body adhesives folks were using. Someone suggested Optima from Ebay so I sourced one. Yesterday I broke the seal and started bonding in various patches and repair strips. Its quite a thick...

Timing belt...its a mileage or age thing. 10 years is a long time and I share this having learned the hard way when one broke after only 25k miles but was 4 years beyond its time/life.