Glynn Lewis website has turned up a lot of goodies...

@SimonBrown Look at the Glynn Lewis site he has the ones you can grease. But your shopping list will grow when you start looking at his kit. Nice mod is the drop arm which takes a track rod,quicker to change

The A frame ball joint has been removed. 3 of the 4 bolts played nicely but one decided to round off on account of rust and just because it could. The trick of hammering a 1/2" AF socket on - as much as I dislike tool abuse - did the trick and...

Slitting wheels finally turned up and were put to use on the radius arm bolt that refused to cooperate. First, melt the bush: Then the slitting wheel and reciprocating saw can get in and chew through the spacer and bolt that simply refused to...

With a delivery of parts attention has been turned to the front and rear brake calipers. Both sets were relatively recent replacements but no idea when they were replaced or how long they have stood so it was strip down and clean up. The...

YRM repair parts are pretty good to work with. Used them on a tub...scroll down here: Sorting out a tub Which coveres various bits.

Galvanitic corrosion requires contact between dissimilar metals and an electrolyte. Water completes the circuit between the metals. So it will have been damp, at least at some point. Keeping the metals apart (rubber/paint) or keeping out the...

The last few days has been spent removing the rear suspension upper and lower trailing arms. Each, in their own way, has been a PITA. Was supposed to be overhauling the front and rear calipers but the courier company has decided our village is...

A few more tasks done at the weekend...removing rear springs, draining the oil and stripping the brake calipers for a good clean and inspect. Plus an M20 x 2.5 die nut that popped up on Fleabay arrived: And used to clean up the threads on the...

Same type I have, but not Nielsen. Nielsen make garbage. If you buy lifting or compressing tools, don't cheap out.

+1 for this type:

Rubbish type on the left Excellent type on the right.

Taking the advice of @Hicap phill the glow plugs were pulled out each pot and a good dose of oil squirted in. Then the glow plugs were back in and the engine spun over a few times to slosh the oil around. Each glow plug removed in turn and the...

Did you have to do the test dry or add a bit of oil? With a bit of oil the ring may seal

I had forgotten that trick. The engine has sat for a while and may have a sticking ring...so will lube and repeat. That said, there is some evidence the bores are worn with oil coming up the breather pipe. Not sure if its a "feature" or...

Tonight was compression testing time. That's a quick snap of No4 after it had sat for a while. The numbers were: No1 = 420psi No2 = 400psi No3 = 340psi No4 = 400psi So straight away and before consulting the workshop manual No3 a concern as...

More minor jobs. The steering box has been removed and given a good clean. It had a sticky residue of ATF but no apparent leaks so a good clean up and it will go back on. The drop arm ball joint rubber had split so a new ball joint was fitted...

Proof enough. Mine will go through the shotblaster...proper cleanup and refit.

Nicely showing why I wouldn't be without one :oops:

Mines battered pan. Should have could have would have fitted diff guard. :D but sealed by welder.

Clearly you can run without them and people do, but they are a very cheap and easy to fit piece of protection that I would not go without. Considering how thin the diff pan is, it would not take much of a knock to dent or damage it. Especially if...

I did wonder if the diff guard was going to be refitted. That kind of feedback means its going back on. But not before a good deal of corrosion prevention has been applied.

That is fairly common. You need to fill the diff guard with waxoil or similar to preserve the diff pan. I would not run without the guard personally as the diff pans are very thin.

The diff pan had a guard that trapped mud/moisture. I did wonder what was going to be left of the casing, but its looking OK. Clean up job will commence in time. Most brackets are sound I think but the stripping wheel will reveal all.

They are the later large calipers…better than the small early type. Now that confuses me.(later than your 87) Unless some one has upgraded the callipers.. Normally these appeared from 300tdi on ward

Not only did Land Rover have the policy of improvement...that mindset persists with (most of) the owners. Thanks everyone.

The fact that has no number along with narrow arm brackets, larger axle end caps, swivel housing style suggest it is the original axle. I fact it looks just like my 1990 one [which is original] with more rust. Not that bad though looks like it...

Here you go:

Not 100% certain it has been replaced...but getting a positive ID will be needed at some point. Rear is a Sailsbury. Caliper photo inbound shortly. Judging by the fact some of the zinc and yellow passivate is still visible, and the discs are...

Looks like early 110 axle. Photo of the calliper please. There are 2 sizes Early small Late large(you can upgrade to these on that axle