Seems that THESE GUYS are charging £365 for the work so it might be a starting point

The bolt is to remove the old seals... tap in the new seals and bin that black plastic part but after you removed the old seals clean very well the holes cos the old o-rings used to get stuck in there or leave residues which can hurt the new ones and they'll leak, it's up to 140 bar there when...

Be aware that if you bought complete pipes untill the block you need new seals(RVW100010) and plastic collars(ANR6700) under the bracket, some sellers say they are for air suspension which is wrong, the old ones are not reusable

Hi. Maybe i'm the man but i used to respect my own decision written with red in my signature ;) Ok, i'll make an exception seing your pain... seems that you bypassed the fuel pump relay and the circuit to pump is OK, now bridge the main relay(R9) the same way and see what happens then, also...

It goes to C0230 pin 16 corroborate with the pinout in the connector view i attached

You have to see if power gets to terminal with ignition on 30 then if it closes to 87 when the relay clicks... from 87 the power should get to the pump

Hi, I have no ideea what they mean by that ...all i can tell you is that the tacho signal on the D2 is white/grey wire going to C0230 pin 15 but that's a 2pulse/rev PWM signal i dont know if that "5v or 12V square wave signal" described by them in the guide fits this though isnt that device...

Then it's an interruption between the relay's output and pump if the relay's contact is 100% good and has power on the contact input pin... did you check if power enters and leaves the relay on the contact path?

You can't "bypass" the immobiliser all you can do is to disable it with nanocom or hawkeye once the vehicle is remobilised, while it's immobilised you can't do anything You have to rule out the receiver first cos if that's the problem a second key is useless if the battery ws not disconnected...

AFAIK those modells are pretty the same as functionality when it comes to the D2, maybe some differencies with Jags or newer LRs even though they get updates so it's all about price IMO

Hi. Search around for Foxwell NT520/or 530/or 510 Elite for Land Rover which ever you find cheaper, it will do the job for ABS and decent coverage for other systems except the engine management where it's not very reliable but better technical support and updates like other similar tools...

That's in the "grey zone" in which case only measuring the real pressure at the FPR would be relevant

It's the other way around, too much fuel/lack of air = high EGT hence the superchargers are improving things, also if it's low boost for some management issue or other reason the EGT gets higher... the MAP sensor is quite suspect on your's at this point but i dont like guessing or parts darts games

in this case i stand corrected... based on the handbook : seems that there are some specs which are doing that maybe those built for the UK market cos mine didnt do that not even when it was on the factory setting and now it's certainly not supposed to do it being set like i recommended HERE

it's not supposed to so if it does something is wrong with the system