Classic symptom of blown fuse F25 interior fusebox: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/warning-light.331412/#post-4280411

+1^^^ ... brute force carefully applied to the right point each side is enough, i used arm jack tools one at a side and they came out but you can lift consecutively one side at a time step by step this type

Hi, i hope this helps

Welcome. Maybe the plug was not connected well then, I'm glad it was so easy... aamof i learned English in high school first then trained myself in many ways ;)

the early 15P engine pre-facelift discos originaly fitted with MSB101340 ECU had a very strange "hybrid" fuel map, a kind of Eu2/Eu3 mixage and that 104 AAP reading at idle while the MAP is 96 makes me think that who played with the remap loaded an Eu3 fuel map which needs the 4 wire AAP sensor...

Nothing seems wrong with the sensor readings but it's visible that it's low on power for some reason, go in autobox ECU programming(or utility i can't remember) and reset addaptive values if the engine ECU was replaced, if it still has the catalyst it might be a restriction there so the boost...

Not working: "unable to expand INPUT.zip it is an unsuported format" ... convert it to xlsx and share it with a link, something like this https://www.transfernow.net/dl/202505293Y4xwenQ or other free sharing platform

How?? did you run the 5 throtle purging trick completely untill the EMS stopped flashing then cranked it without throttle? if yes measure the battery voltage while cranking, if it drops below 10.5V it willl happily crank but hardly start

Then find somebody with nanocom, it activates all the lights in the "instrument pack" menu unles it's some other issue

Yes but AFAIK only nanocom can do it... though did you try the "Autographics" menu in the BCU programming or you checked only the "Gearbox" section?

yes, see THIS

That blade is missing the plastic part which fits into that slot in the fob, that pin was supposed to fix the plastic there, see the pic HERE and you'll see what i mean

In addition, if all these tests are failing check continuity of the black/white wire from the plug to ECU black plug pin 35

Hi, it's possible to be something on that circuit, the best would be to plug in a nanocom or similar to see if the ECU gets the signal or not but if you can't get hold of a scanner check with multimeter if you have earth on the plug's black/green wire, if no earth splice into that wire with...

I insist on what i already said twice: record inputs fuelling log cos if it's some sensor misbehaviour or or fuelling issue revealed by the live data not even the God of remaps would help, eventually make it worst or kill the engine