No it won't, the fuel cooler gets flow direcly from the bottom of the radiator, the return from the matrix goes into a T piece at the end of the cooler where it meets the outlet flow of the cooler when the thermostat in that piece is open cos when it's cold outside there is no flow through that...

I double checked the coolant flow diagram and i am convinced now that you can simply stop the flow toward the matrix from the top hose with a simple mechanical valve without affecting the engine's cooling nor the fuel cooler's function, cut the pipe in the area pointed with red and insert...

Hi, if the TPS live readings are as they should in the ECM inputs(track 1= 0.5-0.8V at idle/4.5- 4.2V at full throttle and track 2 = supply - track 1 all the time) while TPS inputs are wrong in the ABS i doubt that changing the fuel map will help at all cos the problem is with the ECM or ABS...

Only the pedal braking will work this way but without power bleeding the modulator once it was empty of fluid will affect the correct function of all the active braking modes(ABS, TC, EBD, HDC) cos air will be trapped between the OV's circuits, pump, shuttle valves and the expansion chambers cos...

Yes, you can for test just the ride heights might be a bit different but if you connect it and the compressor will not run like with the original you know that's it. If nothing changes you should swap the fusebox... what ever you swap disconnect tne battery's negative lead first and reconnect it...

Hi, which fuse exactly? No, at this point the first suspect is the fusebox or in the worst case the SLABS ECU unless it's a wiring issue somewhere and that coud be a nightmare.

Usually such body parts are obsolete these days, though if you find one in stock it will be quite expensive, google out the p/n based on THIS

If the gauge went above normal means it was too hot already cos it leaves the middle at 120*C and the electric fan kicks in at 110 by default, so if it ran full time means there was more than 110*C and that will kill the engine on a long run... IMO you have a cooling issue cos it's not supposed...

No probs at all, others did it as well

Yes, you can't acees the matrix other way

That's why i said to undo both pipes and join them together, not hard to do, all you need is a short piece of pipe to insert between them and use the existing clips

The matrix has permannent coolant flow and the heating/cooling is managed by the servomotors which are opening/closing the flaps, when cooling is set the flaps for the heater core are supposed to be closed and all the air should go through the cooling evaporator, a real specialist should fix it...

the man mentioned it: I used it myself too once( THIS ) and felt some slight improvement but not more than with Liqui Moly or Wynn's.

That's a classic sign of low gas level, get it regassed at a specialist

Which is safer than any of the newer CAN-bus technilogy these days which are easyer to be acessed by ”specialists” with proper scanners who dont even know how these old security systems were conceived. There is almost zero possibility for an immobilised(locked with active alarm) D2 on factory...