Erase those codes then read again after a drive cos nothing in the live data log seems wrong as to trigger such codes but if they come back the ECU defaults to a limited fuelling protocol and then it's normal to be powerless

I'm glad it was so easy ;) ... now start to make some economy and when you'll afford buy a second fob too cos that's the way to get rid of stress when it comes to a D2 immobiliser wise

Yes they do

Dont do that but you can unplug the ambient air temp sensor under the grill then the aircon fan will permanently run and help cooling a bit, the aircon will work normally except the outside temp display

With the PEL500110 mine ended up hotter on a long run than with the original i presume cos the bypass spring is soft only the 100900 made it run cooler a bit

It's a huge offer all over the place, google out PEM100990 but if you want a reliable one use LR suffix for it

Replace or clean the filter, the red light usually has to do with lack of hydraulic pressure for some reason though there should be a fault code anyway unless it's an `ECU misbehaviour

+1 for that ^^^ with the addendum that nanocom is not reliable with the fault code.... foxwell might do the job better and as long as there are no leaks and good fluid activity in the tank you can drive it with R14 removed without fear

You'll have to try with another fob cos it might send the RF signal but not the code and if that fails too the problem is the BCU, no way to know exctly which of them is making tricks without trying

OBD2 will not work, for complex BCU settings i dont know cheaper than nanocom eventually if you find a second hand hawkeye like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/1058983729?iid=226913402823

Just get a cheap human friendly one for such aleatory and rudimentary work, i have one in the vehicle and does it's job, search for UNI-T 33D+

That would give much more trouble, the receivers are common failure even if it's dry cos condensation happens too

I presume you dont have a second fob then... if you tried to sync the fob to the slot with your fob's internal code not to other the probem is with the fob , can you see the red LED working on it when you unlock? even then it can be a problem with it so untill you fix that remobilise it with EKA...

You'll be able to unlock the doors with driver door disconnected but the immoiliser will still be active as it didnt get the unlock command from the fob, the only way to remobilise a locked vehicle on factory alarm setting is by unlocking with the fob or if the fob doesnt work then with EKA code...

After all the confirmed tests and jobs done that's a possibility too or some other mechanical stuff like injector clearances not set well, or those who replaced the seals mixed up the injectors and the codes are not matching animore, from now it's beyond my knowledge but i can confirm 99% that...