Hi, that code should not be displayed just like that, seems like a glitch, nanocom must show the full code description cos there are more versions of it(see attachments, that's only one example of code but the format should be like that), anyway...

That plug has two wires as it's the power supply for the pump, one should be live the other earth so measure across the two pins immediately after the ignition was turned on

There is a huge variety of them some reputable brands too, see HERE, it's a lottery these days, i bought a Stark to have it within reach in case of failure on mine based on my own experience with stark pumps for my Hyundai and Opel which are...

You'll have to see if the pump gets power and if it does means it's dead which is the most likely scenario, first check in C0376/0390(attached) from here the circuit goes to the pump... if no power we'll speak then but if you have power prepare a...

Hi. Charge the battery to full and try then, the fact that it's cranking doesnt mean it's enough power for the ECU too, if the voltage drops below 10.5V it will not start but will happily crank ... also check the drive belt while cranking cos it...

At the tail door splice into the pink/purple - pink/grey and try both polarity feeds if no joy try across pink/purple -pink/red

Being stuck superlocked you must be able to unlock the doors first with nanocom then you can disable the superlock but if the superlock motors don't respond to nanocom's body-security outputs nor to the trick with the wires then it's a brutal...

I wasnt sure it would work but i thought worths a try. Then it's back to what i said in post #31 the trick with the wires must be applied to one of the other doors which are all on the same circuit

The chip IS on the left-hand PCB in exactly the position @sierrafery showed you. Are the PCB components on the other side of the other one? Or does it have nothing other than the battery holder? I suggest you reread the thread as we have given...

That tool is completely useless for a D2 fob, as i already explained you need the bar code or the code labeled on the PCB no way around that

The new key is not a D2 key

The brown wire in the 3 pin plug should be permannent live from fuse F7 engine bay fusebox, black = earth and red = lighting switch

it's LR009793

No such thing as transponder when it comes to D2 remote fob, it has a "chip"(called "transponder" by those who dont know much about it, shown with red arrow in the pic) which communicates with the passive remobilisation exciter coil which is...

Needed a new front left wheel bearing (hub)

Yes, that's the only way

Looks very similar behaviour with the case from down under, can't you find somebody with Hawkeye or Foxwell or some other multivehicle tool which covers the D2? I observed that all the other tools are quite accurate with the ABS, they are not...

swap the two front sensors and see then, or replace the front left if you have a spare

That sentence is valid completely: "...be aware, the extra wires must not be connected to anything while you unlock with the remote, you must feed them for a second then let them in the air for remote command ... which means to let them spliced...

The pipe with attenuator is from pump outlet to the block, in that scheme is 11 which goes to 13

I dont understand your doubts, i can't explain better than i already did, i said "splice into" which means use posi-taps or skotchlocks or something into the wires as they are, it's nothing about pulling or cutting anything and you can take +12V...

HERE is one for 4HP22 without other suffix which has the VB covered too, i've never seen one dedicated for the D2

I've never cut the sleeve on a genuine one to see how it's inside, that metallic side seems the attenuator but that pipe is definitely not genuine

here's a rough diagram for the pipes

I hate mechanics who are reading a fault code then that's it :mad: If the sensor is new and the code is about it's circuit the logical move would be to check the circuit IMO, the live input while cranking or whilethe engine runs would be the...

The new sensor should be here in a couple of days so will report back if that was the problem or not. Also my mate used his launch code reader and it read it as front left as well

Check the ECU ed plug for oil

In this case seems that nanocom has more kind of oddities when it comes to ABS cos i've seen only cases when the code was wrong and the live reading correct but if the guy from down under was right the probem in this case is with the live reading...

I don't think so, unfortunately the discussion might have got mixed up there a bit... IMO if the code is for the front left but if you unplug that one and the live reading goes to zero on the rear right the problem is the rear right

Hi, it's quite common glitch, you have all the info you need HERE read it all ...btw what year is your D2? maybe i'll find a pattern cos it doesnt happen to all