Read some live data when cold, read some live data when hot and see if there are any anomalies maybe? Welcome to the forum.

IMO they are not 100% the same

That would be revealed also by some live readings unless it's replaced with a known good one based on a hunch

Hi, follow down the the battery main earth lead to not be loose or corroded (i dont know where it is connected on the defender)...according to other site it's: "Partway along the cable there is one 8mm terminal which is bolted to the chassis at...

Seems quite complicated if that's what you mean

No, that would have other symptom like overboost, it would affect acceleration above 2500rpm, find other real specialist who knows how to diagnose a Td5, as i said live inputs are necessary

Unplug the MAF sensor and see how it runs that way... if it runs well a new MAF is needed but only the genuine LR is reliable which is frigging expensive so better without it than with a cheap aftermarket which can mix up things... to avoid a...

Hi, Is it Eu2 or Eu3 engine? manual or auto?

^^^ That's the only straight way to fix it otherwise it's a guessing game

Actually it might work from the driver's door too if you are lucky but that's not 100% sure... so remove the driver's door card, unplug the actuator and splice with two wires into the pink/grey and pink/purple wires from pins 6 -7(attached) as...

The best would be to try with nanocom body outputs from BCU to force the superlock first to rule out the BCU before chasing other issues... you can try a trick but you'll have to do somehow to remove one door card from any door other than the...

Then you have a serious problem as they are all superlocked which means something happned on that particular circuit... a nanocom or similar is needed to try to force the superlock motors unless it's a BCU or wiring issue... on a scale from 1 to...

So all the doors except the driver's are stuck closed no matter what you do boot included?

I understood the unlocking thing, answer exactly to my question if you want help

So you pull the handles inside on all doors and nothing happens after two consecutive remote unlock commands while you can open the driver's door only?

But can you manually open all the doors now ?

You can't retrieve that code, if it's still the factory fitted unit you should get it free from a LR main dealer based ownership evidence if not you'll have to pay for it HERE , or it can be some retrofitted aftermarket unit without any code

Yes

Hi. swap R1(pump) with R3(headlamp wash) or with a new one and see after that, if no change there is a weak contact on that relay's circuit

I don't think so as i would not know as well

It should bleed itself if you drive as fast as you can with many cornerings both sides, for example do some 8's with it on a plain surface(i went in a supermarket's parking after it closed)

IMO the ECUs are all the same, thinking twice you are right, with that 16-17 bar reading the pump might be ok but i can't find any explanation why the activity in the tank is not as expected unless thereis dirt or something happened in the block...

The 10P does not have AAT input at all while the AAP input from the airbox sensor is vital as it's part of the boost calculation together with the MAP, the MAF on the 10P has to do with the EGR only, record inputs fuelling data on SD card from a...

If you dont get similar with PAS fluid activity in the tank with that new pipe connected directly to the return(bypassed valve block) the problem is the pump, as i said the ECU can't affect the pressure albeit it should react to nanocom's...

I have no ideea what's inside or how it works, that pipe is still the factory fitted one so it's like it was meant to be everything else was replaced(pump, valve block, ram pipes, actuators)

FIXED!! I pulled the engine fuse board out, all wires going green/corroded underneath & one of the wires to a plug was snapped ... So i replaced a pin out the plug and hey presto! She fired first twirl ! Thanks for the suggestions guys!

Hi, clarify few things: Hi, when you say all fuses do you mean those from the interior fusebox too? only the MIL("ecu light") is missing after ignition all the other warnings are working? and can you communicate with other ECUs(SLABS, BCU...

It’s the specification that's important not the Brand, as the fluid you have is the Dexron lll spec then thats okay. Your owners handbook will have more info.

I think it's fixed. It's hard to tell from the pictures (or looking at it in person) but the sprocket on the output shaft is a little warped. Either from running it with a bad bearing for months (I knew that was probably not a good idea...) or...

Do not forget to find and fix the leak or you will be asking the same question again next year.