That fusebox was hurt by water ingress based on the pic in post #4 and an immobilisation was quite imminent regardless of your actions(post #5) so replace it with a good one following the procedure(post #12). Good luck
OK, so with these attachments + the previous one with the code you should figure it out how to get to the suspect sensor(nr 7)...being intermittent it might be just a bad contact in the plug... good luck
That code is about the post DPF EGT sensor(attached) and there are two cases:
1. vehicles with diesel exhaust fluid
2. ...without diesel exhaust fluid
so tell me which modell you have and i'll find you the sensor's position
As i said not very relevant , if your's is facelift you need YQE0000251, if it's pre-facelift any of the following:
YQE103320, YQE103830 , YQE000110, YQE000250, YQE000410
When you get to swap it disconnect battery before unplugging anything(actually never unplug/plug back any electrical connector on the D2 with battery connected) then after the swap and battery reconnection turn ignition on and let it so 5 minutes...
That's what i said, there si a slight difference between early and late faceifts but not noticeable in functionality while facelift will not work well on non-facelift nor vice-versa... you can see here which P/Ns are for facelifts and which are...
Not the part number is important cos there are supersessions for the same type, it must come from same modell like your's(facelift or not) cos there are some differencies.
That's classic IDM or BCU failure, quite common and can have various symptoms: =sierrafery&o=relevance']CROSSED B
Replace the fusebox ASAP cos this issue can become worst in no time then it might be immobilised... maybe you are lucky to be that...
Hi, for the central locking check fuse F1 in the interior fusbox but not just visually make sure it has power on it both sides(you can measure on the small exposed metal pins in situ) ... as about
explain that better, what's the symptom
anyway...
The only simple and certain way to rule it out is to replace the receiver with new or 100% good one as it's plug and play and if no joy then suspect the BCU or a wiring issue, usually a BCU fault would not affect ONLY the RF function
Here are the docs you need, save to computer and open with acrobat reader:
1. D2 circuit diagrams
2. D2 Electrical library
3. D2 WSM
though if you want to fit a D2 electronically managed autobox to the defender you must be very skilled with...
Hi, just picking up on this now. The distractions are sorted and I had a few other jobs to do before getting to the gutless performance. Thermostat done and it warms up now and maintains temperature BUT the heater is still only mlldly warm on...
thre word terrafirma gives away the problem.... aka terrra rubbish the build quality and contrilo is a joke, buy three off them each on will be a different size....
Again, your comments are invaluble. I will do as you suggest. As mentioned in my itriductory profile, I completed a ground up rotisserie restoration of a 1965 Jaguar E type. Attache is an image. The electrical diagram is only one (1) page. Life...
Hi, i respect your work albeit you should have asked before fitting additional switches as there is a more simpler way to bypass the BCU if that's what you want(not my way of fixing things)... the switches and wiring are already there all is...
Usually an electrical problem would bring on the amber or red warning instantly after the self test and should not affect the activity in the reservoir cos at idle the fluid recirculates with free flow, unplug all the solenoid connectors and...
So, tested nanocom on mine, the values at idle from cold start are as in the pic with slight fluctuations(there are moments when some silly values are displayed for a second but that's certainly a glitch), on the DCV's the values were 0.000 at...
Then that ECU is very suspect, of if the ECU is OK there is a power or earth issue to it... you must try with a 100% good one before chasing a potential wiring issue on that path cos that can be a nightmare
Hi, if you are you 100% certain that the ECU is not at fault all the symptoms can be the result of missing power supply or earth to the ECU
btw can nanocom communicate with the BCU and ABS ? if no comms at all with any ECU the problem can be the...
The P clip has nothing to do with the ACE, as the system passes the self test and the warning appears only when the ACE becomes active(at around 20km/h) and considering that the codes are correct + weak fluid activity IMO the problem is most...
That means that the system passes the initial self test hence the good idle readings and it detects low pressure while driving ... did you take extreme care to not let any dirt into the block when you changed it?
btw, what's the fault code now?
Have patience untill monday then i'll make some tests with nanocom on mine to see how it behaves with a 100% working system cos i dont have much confidence in it when it comes to ACE, i'm asking again: ... that 20km/hr thing means that the...
I don't really think the pump was damaged albeit not impossible but as discussed in post #14 it's possible that the attenuator was somehow hurt and now it restricts the flow, unfortunately i don't khow how that feed pipe was built... i hope you...
You should have road tested it before diagnosing cos it's possible that the ECU had a hystorical fault logged.... the outputs should work only with relay in it's place... erase the codes and road test it then we'll speak
Maybe we understand differently how this works, once the air in the tank was pressurised to 1.4 bar due to the expansion of coolant i dont think that pressure will drop to zero once the coolant cools down cos then the level in the tank would drop...